It was coming to the end of a long and sultry day as I languidly eased myself upon a heap of vintage embroidered cushions, the candle-lit lanterns flickering in the warm early evening breeze of an Istanbul night. The background music was haunting as if it were calling me from a far away place. I learned that it was a track called ‘Couples‘ written by Kinan Azmeh, an absolutely brilliant Syrian musician. If you have time listen to it, do so with the volume turned up and feel your heart gently break for a lost love. Then have a glass of wine and forget about it because the love was lost for a re ..read more

Borani is a Persian yoghurt-based dip that usually includes cooked vegetables such as spinach or beetroot. There seem to be no precise rules in respect of the ingredients used but this version is one of my favourites. Ironically the first time I was served it we were sitting atop a candlelit roof-top terrace of a restaurant overlooking the market square in Jodhpur which was still bustling with life well into the deep darkness of an Indian summer sky. The Persian influence on Indian food culture is evident everywhere you go – think biryani, jalebi, kebabs and flatbreads such as the quintessenti ..read more

In Greece, fava is a dearly beloved dish of puréed yellow split peas the most prized of which come from Santorini, an island that is also justly proud of its incredible tomatoes – check out my recipe for tomato keftedes – and its wine. You can thank the volcanic soil for that. Served at room temperature on a summer’s day alongside warm flatbreads and a bottle of bone dry white, this dip is a lovely alternative to hummus (which originates from the Middle East and not Greece). I think I actually prefer it. Serves 6 as part of a mezze spread Ingredients 2 red onions ..read more

Labneh is a beautiful soft cheese simply made from strained yoghurt that can be eaten with pretty much everything and is a particularly good friend to rich and spicy mezze dishes. The first time I tasted it I was sat at a little linen-covered table on the edge of a vegetable garden in Amirim, an entirely vegetarian organic agricultural community set in the hills overlooking the glittering Sea of Galilee. Served on an azure blue plate, the pure white cheese was drizzled with local honey and accompanied with small baskets of freshly baked bread, crushed pi ..read more

Skordalia is a beautifully simple smooth purée of waxy potatoes, lots of juicy garlic, lashings of vibrant extra-virgin olive oil, a generous splash of white wine vinegar and flat leaf parsley whipped together to create a classic Greek dip which is served at room temperature with a scattering of salty capers. Trust me, this bears no resemblance to the ordinary as the process of making it transforms these noble ingredients into a deeply rich and unctuous delight to serve with warm Greek Village bread. Here I’ve paired it with oozy slow-roasted plum tomatoes with organic thyme to create a unique ..read more

Machane Yehuda market in Jerusalem was the first full blown Middle Eastern market I ever visited and, for me, it was an absolutely mind-blowing experience with over 250 vendors and stall holders inviting me to sample their beautiful chaos of fresh fruits and vegetables, bread, pastries and halva, cheeses, nuts and seeds, herbs and spices all piled high and literally zinging with colour, flavour and aroma. There was also stall after stall of producers selling street food to go including crisp balls of falafel, succulent shawarma, kibbeh, kebabs, sizzling shashlik, kanafeh, baklava, za ..read more

Originating from the Ottoman Empire, this is my version of the popular Greek dish, tzatziki (known as cacık in Turkey). It’s simply a bowl of authentic Greek yoghurt getting it on with little cubes of crunchy cucumber, lots of finely chopped garlic, briny sea salt, a generous glug of grassy Kalamata olive oil, an audacious squeeze of lemon juice and lashings of fresh dill and dried mint. It’s the perfect bowl for hot days and is just wonderful on its own with freshly baked pillowy flatbread but, for last night’s supper, I stirred it into warm potatoes with slithers of lightly pickled Trop ..read more

Dusk falls and the Jemaa el Fna – place of the vanished mosque – in the heart of the ancient walled médina is transformed into a seething mass of tribesmen, Berber villagers, performers and musicians who converge upon Morocco’s ochre-tinted city every evening to tell stories, juggle, bang drums in a trance-like state of bliss, dance, charm snakes, make henna tattoos and then tell fortunes from the lines on your hand – a handsome stranger, money from unexpected sources and a long life are all on offer here. Men roll out carpet after carpet with the flourish of magicians as their ..read more

Life in Turkey doesn’t happen without yoghurt. Indeed it is one of the most important components of the modern Turkish diet and there is rarely a table where it isn’t featured in some form or other; as part of a main dish, a condiment, a chilled soup, in a dessert or even as a drink – ayran, a refreshing blend of plain yogurt, ice-cold water and salt. On Tuesdays, our suppers consist of various small plates of salads, rice dishes, hummus and – this week – these za’atar-roasted aubergines with pomegranate and a yoghurt-based condiment that is designed to cut through the rainbow of flavours. The ..read more