Christina Chaey Knows the Trick for Perfect Rhubarb
Grub Street
by Alan Sytsma
23h ago
Illustration: Maanvi Kapur After leaving Bon Appétit in 2022, former senior food editor Christina Chaey started her newsletter, Gentle Foods. “It’s really a place where I do a lot of writing about food and all of these other things that feel like they intersect with food,” she says. “Mental health, anti-diet culture, anti-perfectionism.” Now, she’s in the process of turning it into a cookbook, and ahead of that, she’s been helping out as an assistant stylist on shoots for other books. “Cooking all the food reminds me more of working on the line than working on a magazine story,” she says. “It ..read more
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Do Red Lobster Customers Care the Chain Appears Doomed?
Grub Street
by Zach Schiffman
1d ago
Photo: Zach Schiffman It’s a bad time to be a lover of Cheddar Bay biscuits: Red Lobsters across the country have been forced to close as the seafood chain faces a financial tsunami. Almost 100 locations, including nine in New York State, have (“temporarily”) shuttered. This is all moving very fast: equipment, like lobster tanks, is listed for auction, with sold items needing to be picked up tomorrow, May 17. The good news in the city is that the Times Square outpost seems safe from the deluge for the time being. So we stopped by to see if diners were aware of the chain’s tumult, and if ..read more
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Why Restaurant Prices Feel So High
Grub Street
by Matthew Schneier
2d ago
Illustration: Kate Dehler The other week, a woman I know — let’s call her Anna — managed to get a reservation at Libertine, the popular Manhattan bistro that opened last spring. She and her fiancé were planning a date night, and they were ready to spend. “I was really excited,” she told me. The feeling didn’t last. “We looked at the menu, and it was just so ridiculously expensive that we called it off.” The restaurant, where “poulet à la crème” goes for $48 and a single sausage runs $33, doesn’t post its prices online; Anna had done some sleuthing and found user-submitted photos of its chalkbo ..read more
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Suprêmes in Lviv
Grub Street
by Adam Robb
3d ago
Photo: Polina Bryzghalova Cheese Bakery is located on the second floor of a historic residence at the intersection of two of Liviv’s busiest plazas: Rynok Square, anchored by the town hall, and Katedralna Square. The bakery’s main dining room overlooks the Cathedral of the Assumption through a perimeter of picture windows that offer a view of the top of the bell tower down to the bicyclists and lemon-lime electric tramway that weave through the cobblestones below. The vista has quickly become a backdrop for influencers, like the young women in oversize blazers with a cherry juice in hand and a ..read more
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A Quietly Excellent Japanese Spot Opens on the LES
Grub Street
by Tammie Teclemariam
3d ago
Photo: Noah Fecks For restaurateurs, the simplest way to attract instant attention (and some valuable buzz) is to open a business with an immediately understood hook. Look, for example, at Ilis (Noma guy in Greenpoint), or Stretch Pizza (Wylie Dufresne does pizza). Esse Taco is “Cosme’s taqueria”; Rowdy Rooster is “Indian fried chicken.” In so many ways, it’s the superhero-movie approach to restaurant marketing: Give the people something they already know. “Food media has begun to trade almost entirely on a sort of minor-key celebrity,” says Jon Bonné, the ma ..read more
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Taqueria Ramirez Turns Its Attention to Pork
Grub Street
by Chris Crowley
5d ago
Photo: When it opened in 2021, Taqueria Ramirez instantly attracted lines of hungry New Yorkers, thanks in part to little-seen (in Greenpoint, anyway) specialties like suadero, the smooth-textured cut of beef long-cooked in a mix of fat and broth. Owners Giovanni Cervantes and Tania Apolinar, who are partners in life, call it one-third of their “saint trilogy of tacos.” The others are barbacoa and carnitas, the latter of which is the focus of their new East Village shop, which opens later this month and is aptly named Carnitas Ramirez.  Until recently, real-deal carnitas — multiple cuts o ..read more
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Music Legend Steve Albini Wants to Know Why His Carrots Look So Freaky
Grub Street
by Chris Crowley
1w ago
Photo: Brittany Sowacke for New York Magazine Like many, we were saddened to see the news of Steve Albini’s death. We first published this piece in July, 2018 and are republishing it now as Albini’s friends and fans are sharing their remembrances of the musician and sound engineer. Steve Albini has been one of the underground rock world’s most influential figures since the ’80s. His fiercely independent (and controversial) post-hard-core band Big Black, whose guitar riffs were as sharp as knives, was featured in the classic Our Band Could Be Your Life. Since 1992, he’s played with Shellac ..read more
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Is Esse Taco Worth All the Hype?
Grub Street
by Tammie Teclemariam
1w ago
Photo: Natalie Black I was already on my way to Esse Taco — standing on a crammed L train to Bedford Avenue — when I saw that a friend had posted an Instagram Story of the line outside: dozens of people stretched down North 5th Street ahead of the 5 p.m. opening. This is because the taquería comes from Enrique Olvera, the chef behind Cosme and Atla in New York and Pujol in Mexico City. The chance to get some $6 tacos from a chef whom the culinary world holds in such high esteem is a predictably big draw; the trade-offs come at the expense of comfort. Ess ..read more
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The Best Wine Bars in New York
Grub Street
by Matthew Schneier
1w ago
Photo: Hugo Yu Last week, I reviewed Penny and Demo. By name, they are each a wine bar, although the cooking is ambitious enough to think of them as wine restaurants. Whatever phrase is preferred, this style has become the dominant genre of restaurant in the city: casual, dark, shareable plates, and lots to drink. In reviewing these two newcomers, it seemed like it would also be a useful exercise to assemble a (non-exhaustive) hit list of the best and most interesting wine bars/restaurants I’ve encountered in my own travels. I’ve tried to account for a variety of moods, tastes, and vintages (t ..read more
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A NOLA Seafood Bar Is Ready to Open in Fort Greene, at Last
Grub Street
by Chris Crowley
1w ago
Photo: Hugo Yu As Hisham “Ham” El-Waylly, Anoop Pillarisetti, and Michael Tuiach were putting together the menu for Strange Delight, the New Orleans seafood-and-cocktail bar they are set to open on May 15, they faced a crucial question: “Do we have too many oyster dishes?” They’re served on the half-shell. There are oysters Rockefeller — made, in the style of Galatoire’s, without bacon or cheese — and fried oysters served with rémoulade. In lieu of po’boys, there’s a fried-oyster loaf à la Casamento’s, here made with thick-sliced milk bread, Duke’s mayo, pickles, and shredded iceberg. Did they ..read more
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