Assuming you are using the same film brand/speed B&W film and developer combination, would there be any problems testing out a film in a smaller size to establish an effective film speed and then using it on a larger format? For instance, my whole plate camera has holders that can be adapted from 3.25 x 4.25, 4x5 and 5x7 in addition to whole plate. If I chose a film brand/speed that is available several of these sizes and use the same processing method with the same developer, can I test... Read more ..read more

I want to print tomorrow, I mix my own D72 but just noticed I only have 4g of Hydroquinone, I have lots of Phenidone. Can I use the Phenidone to replace the hydroquinone? I think I'll give it a try but will be curious as to what I might expect on FB paper ..read more

A few months ago I started using Kodak D-76 for developing films. Before I mainly used Rodinal in 1+50 dilution and had no problems with it, it worked fine with all films and even with pushing 1 or 2 stops. What I notice with D-76 in 1+3 dilution and Foma films is that pushed films come out with a quite dark base+fog and the negative is thin (even with longer developing time) and even negatives shot at box speed are sometimes really thin. The chemicals are fresh, I check the developing times... Read more ..read more

New to this forum and relatively new to the darkroom, so forgive what may be a newbie questions. I have used Adox Rodinol since I started a couple of years ago, and MDC for dilutions and dev times, with good results. No stock anywhere in Japan so I decided to try SPUR Acurol-N. And also decided to test Rollei Retro 80S. Shot the Rollei at box speed ISO80 then checked the MDC for SPUR Rollei dilutions and dev time. MDC gives ISO at 20. That's me confused! Do I simply take the MDC 1+70 for... Read more ..read more

I need to scratch another itch and need help. I see reference in older Kodak material to Developer DK-60 but can only find formulas for DK-60A and DK-60b. I know that DK-60a was used, a lot, for commercial photofinishing and studios for roll film and sheet film, and even for "miniature films like 35mm and 828. And DK-60b was for aerial films and had sodium sulfate and benzotriazole added to DK-60a. So what's different in the original, my oldest Photo Lab Index only dates back to the 50's... Read more ..read more

I got a whole bunch of it for free, a gallon each of A&B of unknown usage and 2 sets of powder to make 2 more sets. For other reasons than having so much of it, why should I use it? What are its strengths and weaknesses? Maybe even compare it to D-76. Thanks ..read more

Hi, My darkroom is around 18-19 degrees and I’d like to keep my trays at 20C while im developing sheet films. I have the tray heater already but my trays are plastic ones. Do you recommend me getting an enamel tray, which is still getting sold or the ones like stainless steel ones that they use to in food industry? Many thanks, Fatih ..read more

Hi, When I print BW, I use split grade printing, usually start with 0, or full yellow, establish highlights and mid tones and then move to hard 5, full magenta, to establish shadows. Obviously the paper responds to yellow light much slower than the magenta light, what I mean is, when I need to get like 32s with yellow light, I might be needing only 4 to 8s with magenta light at the optimum aperture of the lens. That makes the dodging/burning really difficult and was wondering if I could... Read more ..read more

Is just water sufficient? I am just refilling them with the same dev that they carry ..read more

How many film developers do you have on your shelf and why? I'm currently using ID11 and have a bottle of , long lasting, Rodinal on the shelf that I seldom use. When available XTOL is on my return to use list but 5 ltrs will tie me to it for too long. Others include Ilfosol and Michrophen. Again I will finish up with some wasted ..read more