, with 18 8C’s under his belt, has flashed on a solo mission. The 34-year-old Czech climber has been an active IFSC competitive climber for 20 years. As a junior competitor he won several Euro Cups and in 2007, he took home the silver medal in the Boulder World Championship. In 2021, he had his best year in Lead making the WC podium twice. Last year he finished up by placing #9 in Wujiang; earlier this month he was #17 in the same venue. He plans to do the Olympic Qualifiers, European Champs and most of the lead World Cups. Can you tell us more about flashing your second 8B? My goal was to try ..read more

that he has done the third ascent of Companion of Change (9a+) in . Jakob Schubert did the FA in 2015 and then Alex Megos made the first repeat in 2017. Dornauer started trying the route more than a decade ago but abandoned it as it felt too hard. This year he completed it after a couple of further days' effort. (c) Can you tell us more about the route and your ascent? The route is only slightly overhanging and consists of an 8a+ route followed by a very specific 8A++ boulder on crimps. Back in the days, it was one of the ultimate projects at the Petzl Rock Trip, in 2009, in Zillertal. It's no ..read more

, who was #37 in the Boulder WC two weeks ago, sent From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) one month ago. (c) Few weeks ago I drove to Ticino for a super short trip, to get a little rest from training and to refresh my mind before the comp season starts. I was going to Brione, but something in my head told me, I should go for another session on “From Dirt”. I’ve tried this boulder a few sessions before, but never really focused on it much, as I never felt really close on climbing it. This time, I had the right energy, the weather was perfect and it just felt right. After falling 4 times on the mantl ..read more

, who has already completed 14 FA's 9a+ to 9b, has done the FA of Nice crimpy route. A hard approach on varied grips, then a "campus board" section with crimps. After that, the second part is easier but still demanding. Fortunately, there is a rest before. Unexpected ascent because my main project was not in good condition today but this route was! So happy after a big fight." Can you tell us more about your project? Phoenix is ​​a project a few meters to the left of Les Nymphes. This is a route that I have been trying for a few sessions, I have already fallen 5 times at the end of the crux so ..read more

, older brother to one of the world’s most successful female competition climbers, Jain Kim, has climbed after projecting it for nine sessions during a month batteling bad conditions. Can you tell us more about the ascent? in Rocklands last year, I was looking for a new hard project. In Korea, we have some good strong climbers like Jongwon Chon and Dohyun Lee but they always focus on the Olympics. Other Korean competition climbers also only focus on competition, so Korean climbers have never climbed an 8C+ boulder route and this became my goal. Somehow, I saw a video where Ryohei Kameyama sent ..read more

, who's already done 16 routes graded 9a to 9a+, has repeated Seb Bouin's , giving it an upgrade to 9a+ due to a broken hold. The same day he also sent , which he says might be 8c+. Can you tell us more about Beyond? This is one of the 5 most beautiful routes I’ve ever climbed in my life, that’s for sure! I’d never have thought that such a small hold on such a big overhang could work and not even be that extreme! A very smooth approach [intro section] to climb, a first major boulder that finishes by jumping onto a tufa, then a transition to a second huge boulder and all this while finishing on ..read more

Serra da Leba is a sandstone quartz mountain range located in the southern part of Angola, around 50 km west of Lubango. The cliff height ranges from 200 to 600 ..read more

Serra da Leba is a sandstone quartz mountain range located in the southern part of Angola, around 50 km west of Lubango. The cliff height ranges from 200 to 600 ..read more

has done his third 9a+ by climbing Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind? Sashidananda is a route with a resistant style, featuring powerful movements in a big overhang. There's a physical start followed by two consecutive cruxes without rest: the first in the most overhanging part with a complex heel hook that requires feeling and a lot of core strength. The second, the hardest, involves a big drop knee to hold a small edge before throwing laterally to the right onto a crack. For me, the difficulty of the route was managing the sections preceding the crux quickly to con ..read more

has made the FA of Les Rois du Lithium (9b) in , saying it is possible his best 9b. In total, he has now done twelve 9b’s, out of which seven FA’s. Seb has a further five 9b+ ascents to his name, as well as the FA of the world's second 9c route, DNA. This part of the wall was attracting me since a long time. From the ground, “Les Rois du Lithium” looked like the perfect line. Straight in the wall with a 20m hardcore ending. When I bolted it, I couldn’t imagine there will be so much perfect holds. And when I firstly tried it, I was amazed by the moves and the line. “Les Rois du Litthium” is bas ..read more