, who was #4 in the Paris Olympics, has sent First of the grade for me! Did a few years back and decided to come back to give the low a shot. The first move felt improbable for most of the sesh, but after figuring out some microbeta for the starting feet it started feeling close. Eventually I was able to latch the first move and then struggle my way through Echale all the way to the top!” The 20-year-old won the Lead World Cup in Chamonix in July and two years ago he won both disciplins in Innsbruck. In the Tokyo Olympics he was #7, however, had he not made a false start with 0.002 seconds aga ..read more

Han Seuran has been on a trip to Arco together with her husband Hyunbin Min where she sent , and is eager to return. In 2012 he won a World Cup and in 2018 he made a comeback after four years and got two bronzes. Last year, comeback again and in Seoul this year, he made semifinals. Seuran’s best year was in 2011 when she three times made the finals. Can you tell us more about the trip? The main purpose of this trip was definitely to check out Excalibur, and my wife also wanted to try some more hard routes as a project, like 9a or 9a+, cause last winter she sent two 8c+’ quickly in Santa Linya ..read more

was bolted and named by got an ok to try it and last sunday he made the FA together with Some climbing routes in Arco and in other areas are kept closed, and we don’t want to encourage this. The goal is to show that making the First Ascent doesn’t need to be a competition. By avoiding closed projects, we promote cooperation within the climbers and show greater appreciation for the bolters, who put in a lot of hard work. The route is really sick. Start with a 7C boulder then a good rest and then a 8c+ sequence of 20 moves !” Gabri, can you tell us more about your bolting and your take about ope ..read more

, with two 8b+ under her belt, has done So damn cool. I drop kneed and went left into the crux pocket, hard move into the crimp before the jump. Had a heartbreaker fall a couple days ago at the very top… it’s not over up there lol. But 10/10!!! I had a singular day of mediocre conditions in this month of monsoons and I used it well :)” Can you tell us more about the trip to Spain? This trip to Margalef has been a constant battle against conditions… An unprecedented amount of rain has provided us very little dry rock and lots of humidity. Aitzol hasn’t been dry for weeks. But today, the sun fin ..read more

, who did his first 9a at age 14, has done . The 15-year-old Austrian has won the last three European Youth Championship/Cups he has participated in. Can you tell us more about the two 9a’s you have repeated? My first 9a was Martin Krpan. Before each attempt, I was very nervous and excited, so for me, the route was less of a physical challenge and more of a huge mental one. I tried the route many times and almost climbed it when I was just 14 years old, but I fell at the top. I finally completed it during a training camp with the Austrian Youth National Team. My second 9a was Napalm in the Mor ..read more

, with five 8c+’ under her belt, has sent . At 27 years old, she has also established herself as a top competitor in Lead climbing since her World Cup debut in 2012. She won gold at the 2018 World Championships and earned a bronze medal at the Olympics this summer. The Austrian has also won the overall Lead WC for the past two consecutive years. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca ”Nooo words for what happened yesterday! My first 9a+ ? Projecting is haaaard, what a rollercoaster of emotions in the past couple of days!! Thx Steff [Scherz] for the belay and even more for your patience!!” Can you tell us more a ..read more

Laura Rogora has, in just one session, repeated Adam Ondra’s . In the past two months, since winning two gold medals at the European Championship, the Italian climber has previously red pointed four 9a routes and onsighted an 8c. (c) Giulio Diener Can you tell us more about the quick ascent? I went to Bus de la stria with Stefano [Ghisolfi]. The route starts with an 8b/8b+ followed by a technical Boulder on small crimps and pockets. I did two tries to find the betas and already on the 3rd try I fell after the hardest moves because I put my foot on some soft rock. I climbed again after an hour ..read more

Sean Bailey has made the FA of Shaolin (9A) in which has been an open project for many years. The problem starts with a five-move 8B sequence that leads directly into the crux. The crux can be tackled either through a static method—Raboutou’s approach, which took him five days to execute in isolation—or with a dynamic, "low-percentage and physical" jump, as Bailey chose, targeting a sloping slot. From there, the climb demands a difficult and tenuous jump to a sloper, a move where Bailey repeatedly fell after starting from the ground. The 27-year-old has been an active IFSC competition climber ..read more

Yuta Imaizumi, who was Top-12 in the last three Lead World Cups has made the fifth ascent of Ryuichi Murai’s Floatin (8C+) in Mizugaki. In regards the grade, he ..read more

Yuta Imaizumi, who was Top-12 in the last three Lead World Cups has made the fifth ascent of Ryuichi Murai’s Floatin (8C+) in Mizugaki. In regards the grade, he ..read more