Wovenhand 8B by Michaela Kiersch
8a.nu
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3d ago
In just the last year, the Doctor of occupational therapy, has done some 35 boulders 8A and harder out of which some just the Can you tell us more about the send and the number of sessions needed? It took about 3 sessions for me - on the second session I tried 15 times and had to take two rest days afterwards, oops! The style is very challenging for me- very powerful sequences with large moves and compression. Proud of this one! How does the warming up routine look like and which are your favourite boulders in MW? An important part of my routine here in Magic Wood is starting the climbing da ..read more
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Stefan Scherz onsights Coque au Vin (8b+)
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3d ago
, who last year was #4 in a Lead World Cup, has onsighted . In 2021, the 21-year-old did his first 9a+ and when it comes to onsight, the competition climber's previous onsight best was one 8a+ from 2020. As a junior, Stefan has won Euro Youth Cups in both Lead and Boulder. (c) C Highland Production Can you tell us more about your personal best onsight? I always try to squeeze in some time outdoors in between the comps. I went to Bergstation, probably the best spot to climb hard in Austria, with the intention of making some goes in my project, Companion of Change (9a+). I quickly realized that ..read more
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Andrew Nimmer flashes five problems 8A+ to 8B
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3d ago
, who did his first and only 8B+ six months ago, has flashed , out of which the last four were done in just the last four days. Steppenwolf was the number one problem I wanted to try on my trip to Magic Wood. My friend Matt and I watched countless beta videos and finally got to try it today after we waited 2 weeks for it to dry. He also sent today which helped bring the psych for the flash go. For Voigas it looked like my style, huge moves on good holds so thought I had a solid chance at flashing. I felt like I was going to fall a few times but kept it together and tried hard for the final big ..read more
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Thibault Lair sends Cosi se Arete (9a)
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3d ago
The 30-year-old has previously done seven 9a's and last month he sent It is a 50 m route in the overhang [directly] above the swimming pool in Rodellar, just next to which I completed a short time ago. Very quickly I passed the hardest section of the route but I fell in the last 5 movements of the route about ten times, which I didn't really expect. Before there was a rest between the bouldering section and the last movements of resistance but a hold broke which means that there is no more rest and that the sequence of the last movements is really hard. I don't think the route has been repea ..read more
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Apocalipsis de la gioconda 9a (+) by Daniel Fuertes, 42
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3d ago
, who has done 17 routes 8c to 9a+ the last year, has sent , giving it a personal 9a grade. It was bolted by José Luis Palao and then Jonathan Flor did the FA. Another super route by Primo, I don't know what the “Apocalypto” has [exactly] but I love this length!!! 50 meters!!! The F.A. is incredible. From Jonatan and his courageous proposal, back then it was much harder to do. Today, being able to try the second pitch in different ways, it feels a little easier, regardless of everything, it's an incredible line!!!!" What about this climb gave you the most challenge? What cost me the most was g ..read more
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Trip Tip Tonic (9a) by Maho Normand (17)
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2w ago
, who last month did his first 9a+, has repeated Cedric Lo Piccolo’s , which was set up as an 8c/+. Do you know why it was upgraded to 9a? Originally, the route had 2 sika crimps in the crux. When one of them broke, the climber Guillaume Lebret imagined other movements that could be done without the 2nd sika ruler that remained! As a result, the route outfitter Cédric Lo Piccolo decided to break the 2nd sika ruler and re-chained the route in its new version. Trip Tik Tonik has thus become one of the most beautiful natural 9a’s. Can you tell us more about your ascent? Second 9! So much emotion ..read more
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Drew Ruana does his tenth 8C+, Howl at the Moon sit
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2w ago
that he has done the FA of Howl at the Moon sit (8C+). In 2019, he was #13 in the Combined World Championship and close to making it to the Olympics. After quitting the competition circuit he has since 2020, focused on bouldering and with close to 30 8C's and ten 8C+, he has one of the most impressive tick lists over the past three years. He's also undertaking a full-time University program. (c) Can you tell us more about doing your tenth 8C+? I spent a long time last season working on this climb [the 8C stand]. It’s a much harder variation than . This season I did the stand in 2 days and the ..read more
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Martin Stranik sends To tu jeste nebylo (9a)
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2w ago
, #2 in the Boulder WCH in 2007 and #4 in the Lead WCH in 2021, has repeated Adam Ondra's Hardest route on CZ sandstone! Tried occasionally the last years and this spring focused on it more and did it on my 4th session. So cool route, intense 17m of climbing without rest." Germans bolted from the top, which is against the rules, then bolts were removed and Ondra Beneš started bolting from the ground. He put three bolts and then Adam [Ondra] added the 4th bolt. Adam made the FA and the others ascents are: Alex Megos, Felix Neumarker and Ondra Beneš. What are your competition plans this year? Al ..read more
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Duygu Haug (44) does ”Kanatlarim var Ruhumda” (8c)
8a.nu
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2w ago
, who did her first 8b at age 36, has done Pure happiness and emotional! Some routes mean a lot to me and this route is one of them and shining on the wall. Thanks to my husband [Tobi] for bolting, for patient belayings and creating amazing line as always. My pleasure to climb your routes. Can be soft or not I can not say something for the grade but I had some spicy moves as short person.” Can you tell us more about the ascent and the name of the route? The route name “Kanatlarim Var Ruhumda” (eng: My Soul has Wings) comes from a famous Turkish pop song. The song is about freedom for women in ..read more
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Isles of Wonder Sit 8C (+) by Will Bosi
8a.nu
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2w ago
has done the first repeat of Aidan Robert’s . ”Really happy to send this king line! I think my beta is easier than Aidan's so I think 8C is fair. During the last 12 months, Will has done two 9A’s, two 8C+’ and eighth 8C’s and his 8a annual score is 12 403, which is the highest ever achieved. However, in the All time-high list, Bosi is #5 after Woods, Webb, Ondra and Cameroni. Can you tell us more about the ascents, the new beta and the number of sessions needed? It took three sessions total counting my first day where I did the stand a couple of years ago. I had my second session on Friday and ..read more
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