The refrigerator was very hot between the freezer door and the refrigerator doors, I pulled the refrigerator out from the wall and saw the condenser fan motor not running. I checked for 12 Volts DC at the RED and BLACK wire connections to the condenser fan motor, while the compressor was running, and saw 12 Volts DC on my multimeter, so the main control board was putting out the proper voltage. I ordered and replaced the condenser fan motor and it worked great! Here is the condenser fan motor you this model: WR60X23363 Fan Gasket Asm Jake ..read more

I went out to the customers house and their refrigerator was not cooling in the freezer or refrigerator sections. I pulled the refrigerator out from the wall and removed the rear lower access panel and the compressor was not running at all, but the condenser fan motor, that mounts next to the compressor, was running. Then I checked for 120 volts AC at the two larger wires that go to the compressor invertor board and 120 volts AC was present and on the two smaller wires I was getting 5 volts DC, which means the compressor inverter was the bad part. I then unplugged the refrigerator and I replac ..read more

I went on this service call, this is called a bottom mount refrigerator(Refrigerator on Top, Freezer on Bottom), and the freezer section was freezing and doing good, but the refrigerator section was warm above 50 degrees. I opened the freezer door and heard the evaporator fan motor running and saw lots frost build up at the bottom vent on the back panel inside the freezer, I removed the freezer door, shelves, and ice maker, then I removed the back panel inside the freezer, and the evaporator coil was completely frosted up to where I couldn’t even see the coil. Before I defrosted it I unplugged ..read more

I went out on a service call for a refrigerator not cooling properly in the fresh food section, the freezer section was just barely keeping items frozen. I heard the compressor running but when I opened the freezer door the freezer(evaporator) fan was not running. I unplugged the refrigerator and then removed the back panel inside the freezer, then removed the electrical connector to the freezer fan and put my meter probes in it, and plugged the refrigerator back in and my meter read 120 volts. So I was getting 120 volts at the freezer fan motor but it was not running. I ordered a new one and ..read more

2008 GSS23WGTAWW GE Refrigerator: Not coming on at times. I went out and the customer said when it cycled off it would not come back on at times, and other times it would. I ordered the motherboard and replaced it and it fixed it, I called the customer back the next day and he said it was working just like new again. Here’s the motherboard(main control board) for this model: WR55X10942P Main Control Board Jake ..read more

Went out to a service call on this refrigerator and it was not cooling, the compressor wasn’t running but the condenser fan motor was running. I unplugged the refrigerator, then removed the compressor start device relay and ohm tested it, my meter didn’t read any ohms on it, so it was bad. Normal would be between 3-12 ohms if it was good. I then plugged the refrigerator in and took a voltage reading at the electrical connector that connects to the compressor start relay and it read 124 volts AC, so it was getting the correct voltage to it. I had a new compressor start relay in my truck and ins ..read more

I found the ice maker not making any ice at all, the ice maker would cycle but not put water in the ice maker tray. I volt tested the electrical connector that goes to the ice maker water inlet valve solenoid while the ice maker was cycling, and my multimeter was only showing 48 volts AC, and that ice maker water inlet valve solenoid needs 120 volts AC to put water in the ice maker tray. I replaced the ice maker and it worked great, I could hear and see the water going into the ice maker tray. Here’s the ice maker for this model: W10882923 Icemaker Jake ..read more

When I arrived I pulled the refrigerator out from the wall, then unplugged the refrigerator, then removed the compressor start relay from the side of the compressor and used my digital multimeter to ohm test it, I set my meter on 200 ohms, and my meter’s numbers didn’t change when I ohm tested it, and that means its bad. Normal ohms should be 12 ohms or less, usually around 5 ohms. I installed a new compressor start relay and the compressor came right on and started cooling. I also cleaned the customers condenser coil. located underneath the front of the refrigerator, behind the kickplate gril ..read more

When I arrived there was no ice at all in the ice bin that’s located directly under the ice maker. I removed the front cover, just unsnaps off, and turned the gear in the direction of the arrow, then it started cycling on its own and it put water in towards the end of the cycle. The freezer was at 5 degrees which is good. I told the customer I would call him later that evening to see if it dumped the ice out, So four hours later I called the customer and he said no ice had dumped into the ice bin, I ordered a new ice maker and went out to install it, and he called me back saying the new ice ma ..read more

I went out to this refrigerator and found the back panel inside the freezer had massive frost build-up on it. I first unplugged the refrigerator from the wall electrical outlet, then ohm tested the defrost heater and found it was bad, meaning the numbers on my digital multimeter didn’t change. Normal ohms for most at defrost heaters is mainly about 30 ohms or less. I completely defrosted the entire evaporator coil, which is located behind the back panel in the freezer, then I removed the old defrost heater assembly and installed the new defrost heater assembly, worked great! Here’s the defrost ..read more