The Antique Sewist
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Reproducing historical garments from the Medieval to the 1950s, using antique sewing patterns, extant garment patterns, and patterns professionally inferred from period art and illustrations. My name is Jennifer, but I usually go by my published pen name, Lydia Gastrell. I have been making historical clothing since 2006. I was invited to a costume party but made the costume myself for the..
The Antique Sewist
1y ago
Pattern: J.P Ryan Riding Habit, altered.
Fabrics: wool blend serve, linen, silk taffeta.
Measurements: *made the size 10, unaltered, which came out to the following:
Chest: 35"
Waist: 28.5"
Back Width: 13.5"
Bicep: 13" max
Sleeve (long, outer curve): 24"
RIDING COAT:
Made with dark green wool blend serge, medium weight. The body is fully lined in white linen, with the leading edges of the front opening and skirts are faced in 100% silk taffeta, gold. The lapels, cuffs, and pocket flaps are also lined in the silk taffeta. The skirt back portions are fully line ..read more
The Antique Sewist
1y ago
Patterns: Self drafted (pet41)
Fabrics: 100% cotton, Indian block print. White muslin lining.
Measurements:
Chest: 40-41"
Waist: 33-34"
Hip: Free
Back Width: 15"
Shoulders: 18.5"
Bicep: 14.5" max
Drafting Update
This is the second time I have used this pattern after the initial drafting. I kept everything the same, except I ended the length by 1.5" and redrew the sleeves to correct for the shoddy seam allowance lineup. Everything is pretty much perfect now, so I can finally trace out the final pieces on the good paper for future use. In the on-going fight to cata ..read more
The Antique Sewist
1y ago
Patterns: J.P. Ryan "18th Century Frockcoat"
Fabrics: 100% cotton velvet, black, medium weight. 100% silk, black, plain weave. 100% linen, plaid of green and beige. 100% cotton twill, black, for lining facings.
Measurements: *made the pattern size 48" and came out true to size. Measurements taken on the form.
Chest: 48"
Waist: N/A (open coat)
Sleeve, outsize curve: 26"
Sleeve, inside curve: 19.5"
Bicep: 17" max
Shoulders: 22" across back of neck.
18th century Black Velvet Frockcoat.
For full photo album, scroll down to the bottom of the post.
I made no ch ..read more
The Antique Sewist
1y ago
Patterns: TV496 "1896 Ripple Bodice, TV296 "1895 Ripple Skirt".
Fabrics: Poly Taffeta with floral/vine embroidery, bronze. Knobby wool blend, red.
Measurements:
Chest: 43-44"
Waist: 34"
Hip: Free
Hem: 40.5" at front.
Back Width: 16" max
Neck: 16" max
Bodice
Fully interlined in plain cotton, minus sleeves. Fully lined in ivory taffeta. The sleeves are fully lined in light weight cotton and interlined with a layer of heavy netting plus another gathered section of netting.
Below, you can see the inside of the sleeve before the lining has been inserted. The net ..read more
The Antique Sewist
1y ago
Pattern: J.P. Ryan Riding Habit, with self drafted changes to collar, lapels, cuffs, etc.
Fabrics: Wool blend Twill, dark green. Gold silk lining (repurposed drapery lining). Silk floss and gimp used for buttonholes. Muted gold metal buttons.
Measurements:
Chest: 36"
Waist: 29-30" (wiggle room with waistcoat and petticoat, and if the jacket is left open)
Hip: Free
Hem: 39" front, 42.5" back (shown over a false rump)
Back Width: 14" max
Bicep: 14" max
Construction Details
The body fronts and lapels are interlined with stiff linen, and the entire jacket is lined in gold ..read more
The Antique Sewist
1y ago
Patterns: Eagle's View Men's Waistcoat, 18th century version, with alterations.
Fabrics: 100% wool, tomato red, tropical weight. 100% linen, natural, medium weight.
Measurements:
Chest: 42-43"
Waist: 37-39" (back lacing to fit)
Pattern Overview
Firstly, I really like the Eagle's View patterns. They're simple and lend themselves well to alterations. The pieces are properly made and meetup correctly (a problem that, sadly, happens too often in indie pattern companies) There are a few downsides, though, but nothing that the intermediate and above sewist can't handle.&nbs ..read more
The Antique Sewist
1y ago
Pattern: The Mill Farm Riding Habit, but with significant alterations. In fact, the only piece I didn't heavily alter was the back.
Fabrics: 100% wool, hunter green. 100% linen, tartan pattern.
Measurements:
Chest: 41-42"
Waist: 37-38"
Hip: Free
Sleeve length (outside curve): 25"
Sleeve length (inside curve): 17"
Bicep: 15" max
Hem: 38.5" at front, 41.5" at back (shown over large false rump)
Pattern Alterations
The Mill Farm pattern is a good one, especially since it comes with the coat and a waistcoat but it has some issues so I do recommend it for those with ..read more
The Antique Sewist
1y ago
Pattern: Rocking Horse Farm #152 "Banyan & Cap 18th century" (First time use)
Fabrics: 100% cotton outer fabric, deep red with scrollwork patterns in gold, dark brown. 100% cotton lining, white with block print scroll pattern. Front, cuffs, and collar facing done in silk/rayon blend velvet, emerald green. Cap done in all the same fabrics.
Measurements:
I made the pattern size Large, marked as a 40-42" (101-107cm) chest. Still quite comfortable up to a 44"(112cm), however.
The sleeves are overlong, nearly 38"(96cm) from the neck, intended to be rucked up ..read more
The Antique Sewist
1y ago
Patterns: Laughing Moon #133 Robe en Chemise with significant alterations and construction changes. I basically used it as my jumping off point.
Fabrics: 100% cotton batiste, embroidered, dark brown. Linen/cotton blend for lining, also dark brown. Bolero is 100% silk, mini stripe in coral and cream.
All visible stitching has been done by hand, including the hem and drawstring channels.
Measurements (gown only): *Style allows for a lot of wiggle room in the chest, underbust, and waist.
Chest: 34-38"
Underbust: 30-34"
Waist: Pretty much free, would wo ..read more
The Antique Sewist
1y ago
Patterns: J.P. Ryan Riding Habit for the coat. The waistcoat and petticoat and self drafted.
Fabrics: 100% silk taffeta, gold, for the petticoat and waistcoat. The coat is 100% wool, lightweight and with a very tight weave and smooth finish. The coat is lined with indigo blue cotton and a gray/green plaid linen.
Measurements: Made the pattern size 10 with no alterations to fit. Patterns runs true in this size
Chest: 36"
Waist: 29-30"
Hip: Free
Hem: 37" at front, 40" at back (shown over a split rump)
Neck: 15" max
Bicep: 13.5" max
Sleeve Length (outside curve ..read more