Hi all. I am looking to integrate my heating and hot water control into my HomeAssistant network, the majority of which is using Zigbee - by all accounts, it works fantastically. However, I need to be a bit careful about exactly what hardware I buy (I have a Y-Plan system, so I need Hive with hot water control). According to this: Database of Zigbee devices compatible with ZHA, Tasmota, Zigbee2MQTT, deCONZ, ZiGate and ioBroker Database of Zigbee devices compatible with ZHA, Tasmota, Zigbee2MQTT, deCONZ, ZiGate and ioBroker zigbee.blakadder.com There are two dual channel receives that ..read more

Does anyone know how to test one of these? It’s brand new with a working SIM card from a previously same model but the SIM card holder was broken I’ve powered it up and it’s got mobile signal with a slow flashing red led and I’ve connected a 12V pc case fan into the following for testing the relay: COM: Black negative wire to fan NC: Red positive wire to fan This was my thinking to prove that it can work with the existing magnetic gate I have the instructions which I will attach on... Read more ..read more

I'm looking into rewiring my house as the existing setup is extremely dated. Floors need to come up anyway and it'll all have to be plaster boarded and redecorated so I have the opportunity to run anything I need, but I'm new to home ownership and automation. For lighting circuits with 2 or 3 switches (some will have 2 way, others 2 way + intermediate) is it useful or beneficial to be running a neutral to ALL switches on the circuit, or should only the first switch have a neutral? Thanks ..read more

Hi all, Some advice needed I currently have hive single channel connected to my combi boiler. Current boiler didn’t have any thermostat to begin with so was easily wired in. I’m moving house and the current set up is a Honeywell BDR91. Advice on the wiring below Blue to hive negative Brown to hive live Grey to common Black to 3 (heating on) Thoughts ..read more

I've a selection of different smart plugs, temperature sensors, theromstats etc which use different apps to control. Some are on eWeLink, some on Smart Life and others on Tuya Smart. There are even a couple on apps that are pretty much proprietary, such as Govee and my Nest heating controls. This mix wasn't intentional, it came from buying individual items at first, and setting them up on their own apps, but as I'm starting to create scenes it's getting quite restrictive. To give ie... Read more ..read more

I have the above fitted to my roller door and the courtesy light in the control unit has failed. I have not tested the circuit board containing the actual LED lights so I can't be certain it is the light board that is faulty or whether there is a failure on the main circuit board. I am trying to see if it is possible to fit an alternative light to the door unit using the existing circuit board connections The unit was installed some years ago, possibly as far back as 1998. There is a... Read more ..read more

I am cabling my MVHR unit to its control panel which requires 4 core (2 pair) cable. The manual refers to 4×0.22 mm cable. The colours referenced in the instructions are White, Green, Yellow, Red and I would like, if possible to keep the colours matching the instructions for simplicity of maintenance in the future. I can find lots of 2 pair cable that would do the job but these are in the "Telephone" colours. Does anyone know where I might get a 4 core cable with White, Green, Yellow, Red ..read more

I run a B&B and am looking for a way to turn the lights off whenever a room is unoccupied for X amount of time. The guest should still be able to turn the lights on and off manually, but should not be able to disable the auto turn off feature if the room is unoccupied. I guess I am looking for a light switch with a built in presence sensor? I guess a presence sensor would be better as if it is a motion sensor, the lights may go off unwanted if the guest fails to make sufficient movement... Read more ..read more

I previously had the following set up: Honeywell T6360B thermostat (on Ground floor) Bosstherm BRTMK2 (On Top Floor) Siemens RWB9: Main unit - This controls both the Honeywell and Bosstherm as well as the hot water. The current boiler is Patterton Suprema boiler 100L 9016 There is also a megaflow water tank. I have now replaced it with the following: Tado Wireless Receiver [Serial number: BP2983878400] (replaces Siemens RWB9) Tado Wired Thermostat [Serial number: RU2742311424]... Read more ..read more

Just watched a Big Clive YouTube where he looks at why a socket was subject to recall. It seems due to earth one left and right of a double socket not being interconnected. He says electricians would test, however not sure I would have done. I am so use to sockets with two earth connections, connected I am not sure I would test, and would likely only use one, meaning one socket not earthed. I would plug in the loop impedance meter, but likely only in one socket, so if in the earthed... Read more ..read more