It took 2 [2 man, manual] bleed sessions on my 75 to get the brakes solid ..read more

Sorry already sold ..read more

Thanks Brian and Shaun for the replies. You have confirmed my suspicion that the clutch MC push rod is indeed shorter. I never saw any note warning me but in any case, the old rod forks are very worn and I am reluctant to use the old rod, if I can find some alternative. Don't know if this is true of all MGC's but mine has a spacer between the clutch MC and the back of the pedal box. The spacer width and the difference in pedal positions are both about 3/4". Perhaps the spacer was installed to allow for the longer rod on the original MC. I'm wondering if removing the spacer and mounting the cl ..read more

The front and rear spoilers on fast race cars (150 mph +) are there to reduce lift and make the cars more stable. They actually increase drag. At one of the Mosport vintage races a few years ago. a CanAm car lost its front spoiler at the end of the back straight. went airborne, and did a backward somersault. Driver was killed. The Porsche 911 Turbos had to add a whale-tail to keep the cars stable on the Autobahn.All this was discovered by accident - literally. Wind tunnel tests at that time looked for top speed - not stability. You can see this change by comparing the Ferrari 250 GT SWB to the ..read more

1974 MGB horns just sort of click or blip when button pushed. Applied 12 volt to horns and they work fine. Due to low voltage at the purple wire spade connectors, re-did them which were corroded, and checked fuse box, all ok. Horn button seems to work ok and I shorted the contact ring to the hub and got the same quiet blip from the horns. I now have full voltage at the purple wires at the horns. So, where the heck do I trace the purple back from the fuse box to solve this? Thanks, beep, beep ..read more

I've never used a pressure bleeder, but I'd imagine that it won't take the place of bench-bleeding the master cylinder. If you've not done that, it could be your issue. Also, it's possible to have a bad master cylinder out-of-the-box. Sometimes they don't assemble them properly. Ditch the pressure bleeder. You're not physically MOVING FLUID when you press the pedal, you need to get to where you are. Short answer: ^^^ What he said. There's air in the system somewhere ..read more

Tor, This material is not unlike te convertibel hood material. A proper automotive material is readily available. Try Woolies™ in UK, Vinyl Hooding (woolies-trim.co.uk) click or copy to browser they have a proper selection of vintage car materials that will look correct. B ..read more

The problem with some of the tanks is the baffle prevents access to the fuel inlet tube with the filter at the low point. My ‘71 GT had a clogged filter after sitting for 34 years and it finally succumbed to a blast of compressed air where it remains at the bottom of the tank. Fortunately for me, the PO had drained the tank so it wasn’t full of rust and varnish ..read more

Lew, For the first time ever I disagree with you. See the Moss listing for car change over. There are a ton of pictures of unrestored TDs on the net with the nut on the front. George ..read more

I use Eric's tool (not literally). Pushes the pistons back evenly, make sure you do not get overflow from the master cylinder and only push them back far enough to put new pads in especially if the calipers are old. At least you don't need a computer like some modern cars. Another advantage over new stuff is a rear light unit cost £270 on our VW ..read more