Thank you sir! That’s very helpful. I think the epoxy idea would work for me. I think I’ll cut some lengthwise grooves in the threaded rod so the epoxy can key into it better, and maybe do something similar in the crank hole. And maybe add some coarse sand? Maybe that will reduce the depth required? What do you think? I would like to buy Acme rod, but it sure is expensive, not the rod itself but all the other stuff, like nuts and flanges. I’m trying to keep this stuff cheap, both for myself and whoever else I give these ideas to ..read more

A few ideas in no particular order Find someone who can weld. Have them weld a coupling nut to either a flat flange of some kind (for you to bolt onto a wooden handle), or to a short section of pipe to make a sliding T-handle. You can then screw the coupling nut onto the end of your threaded rod. Or you could skip the nut altogether and weld the tube or flange straight onto the threaded rod. Buy a clamping knob threaded 3/4-10. McMaster-Carr carries them. If it isn’t big enough on its own it would be easy to make a wooden handle that would firmly engage with the lobes on the knob and could ..read more

Hello all! This has been by far the most helpful and knowledgeable source of help for me, so I turn to you in my time of need. I’m making a vise (a “Moxon”) for woodworking. I’m using 3/4" 10 tpi threaded rod to drive the front jaw back and forth. But I need a comfortable way to turn the rod by hand and apply some torque (I don’t have numbers). I was thinking of making a crank arm out of 3/4" plywood maybe 8" long, drilling a 3/4" hole in one end, sticking the rod through and trapping the arm between four nuts and washers, two nuts on each side, tightened against each other and against the arm ..read more

Makes sense. Yeah, my brad nailer is a hand-me-down, and it doesn’t have a depth adjustment. And even if it did, I don’t know if I’d trust those teeny heads to hold the masonite very well ..read more

Got a fantastic reply in the comments section. The Fuji HVLP seems to be the one to get for finishing woodworking projects ..read more

Sorry, it took some searching of the memory banks, as this was a few years ago. I tuned my nailer and set the depth. That was about four years ago when I didn’t want to spring for a new tool. Would probably just by the stapler today, LOL ..read more

Great review and write-up. Thanks ..read more

Thanks! I’m a little surprised at the lack of response. Either not many people know about power staplers, or people are not paying attention to the forum. Maybe Stuart’s announcement that he’s shutting it down is playing a role there ..read more

You are correct. T-50 will bend. I’ve had good luck with Craftsman. They aren’t for industrial use but, for home/diy use they’re good ..read more

Hi folks! I think I need a staple gun for attaching 1/8" masonite to the backs of bookcases, or building furniture out of cedar pickets. But it turns out there are several types of staplers (wiring, fencing, etc.) and lots of different staple sizes and styles. I’m guessing I need a 1/4" 18-gauge crown stapler, not T50. Am I right? Also, anybody have any suggestions for a particular model? Either air or cordless. Thanks ..read more