It was about time that Zenith finally completed its current collection with a watch that deserved to be called a diver: After a comparatively long hiatus, the Swiss brand has returned to “the deepest depths with the new Defy Extreme Diver, as well as a remake of one of the most sought-after vintage Zenith diver’s watches, the Defy Revival A3648.” The modern Defy Extreme Diver comes in two dial executions with a 42.5mm angular case that is crafted in titanium (Grade 5), a metal that not only boasts a significant weight-to-strength ratio but is also highly resistant to corrosion. In a ..read more

If the launch of the latest GMT-Master II by Rolex— with its quiet new colorway and small green details— was a demonstration of the brand’s subtlety, then the release of the Deepsea Dweller in yellow gold is an act of ostentatious balance. Presented at Watches & Wonders 2024 as the reference M136668LB, the new “professional” dive watch features an old fan favorite yellow gold and royal blue colorway that was once seen in the Submariner line. The watch eschews the traditional steel construction of the series, instead opting for the loudness of combined precious metal and azure hues to make ..read more

This article was originally published in the November/December 2022 Issue of the WatchTime print magazine. Photos by Jens Köppe, Roger Ruegger and Breitling. He did it again. Georges Kern, Breitling’s highpowered CEO, has relaunched another important watch line based on his “Modern Retro” design concept. The instructions were the same as for the Superocean Heritage, the Premier and the Chronomat: Take a historical Breitling model and design a new watch on that basis, but not an exact copy. Instead, the essential components are carefully selected, brought together in a modern format, and c ..read more

This article was originally published in the November/December 2022 Issue of the WatchTime print magazine. Panerai’s Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel, launched in 2022, is an appealingly robust companion for sports and in daily life. It owes its special character to the use of recycled materials and to a new dial with a color gradient that transitions from gray to black. Everybody’s talking about sustainability nowadays. And for good reason, because manufacturers and customers alike are becoming increasingly committed to this goal. Of course, a watch is a very small product. Straps made ..read more

TAG Heuer gave the people what they want (more thoughtful small watches) this LVMH Watch Week with the release of a new Aquaracer Professional Solargraph watch in 34mm steel cases. Adding to the existing collection of 40mm pieces, these smaller solar powered Aquaracers have the same traits as their larger siblings with water resistance of 200 m, a unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown, lume, and double safety clasp.  What would previously have been singled out as a “ladies watch” is truly unisex as you can see in the photo of the watch on my wrist. In fact the 34mm wide, 9.5mm ..read more

This article was originally published in the Design 2023 Issue of the WatchTime print magazine. Launched in 2006, the Citizen Promaster Dive — whose case and dial were directly inspired by the largest member of the oceanic dolphin family (Orcinus orca) — quickly became a fan favorite, having successfully redesigned the design elements of a dive watch almost completely. Now, Citizen has updated its perhaps most modern tool watch with new features, including a redesigned, more ergonomic case, an improved bezel, and a new black rubber strap. Available with a blue (Ref. BN0231-01L) or black d ..read more

This article was originally published in the September/October 2022 Issue of the WatchTime print magazine. Underwater explorers and frogmen play as prominent a role in the history of Omega’s dive watches as do the seahorse and the world’s most famous secret agent. The history of Omega’s dive watches not only begins at an extremely early date, but also with a timepiece that stands out more for its elegance than for its rugged exterior. But this isn’t surprising because those years were the heyday of Art Deco and thus also of rectangular watches. Omega’s Marine watch pursued a revolutionary ..read more

This article was originally published in the September/October 2022 Issue of the WatchTime print magazine. Seiko won one competition long ago, more than half a century ago in fact, and in it lies the source of the Japanese manufacturer’s chronographic heritage. The story is well known among watch aficionados. In 1969, Seiko, Zenith and a consortium composed of Breitling, Buren, Dubois-Dépraz and Hamilton were vying with each other to build the world’s first automatic chronograph. Each competitor naturally wanted to be the winner. Although Zenith named its movement El Primero (the first ..read more

Since its inception in 1884, Swiss watchmaker Victorinox has epitomized utilitarian excellence, most notably with the creation of its iconic Swiss Army Knife. Steeped in history and renowned for its commitment to no-nonsense functionality, since entering into horology in 1989 Victorinox has seamlessly transitioned its expertise in tool manufacturing to the world of watches, today offering an attractive and sporty catalog. One of the brand’s latest creations, the Journey 1884 Automatic collection, is a testament to its Swiss roots, drawing inspiration from the country’s hiking paths and signs w ..read more

The new Blue Shark IV transcends its superb predecessors with an unimaginable water resistance to 5000 meters. This impeccable divers’ watch incites curiosity and exudes strength. As the fourth iteration of DELMA’s renowned deep-sea diver, it embraces the coveted Blue Shark design while integrating elevated durability and subtle enhancements. At 3,000-6,000 meters below the ocean’s surface, the abyssal zone is a lightless area of immense pressure and chilling temperatures. The unique creatures that reside in these depths have evolved to survive in this harsh environment. Unusual characteristi ..read more