Luca (as Lucca was known back then) has an important place in the history of Ancient Rome for it was here that the First Triumvirate was renewed at a meeting between Julius Caesar, Pompey and Crassus in 56 B.C., held in the old forum where Piazza San Michele is now situated. There are few physical remains of Ancient Rome in Lucca today but Roman history is visible in the layout of the medieval centro storico. Lucca's much smaller, original rectangular center was first enclosed with walls by the Romans to defend it from attacks from the north. The Roman perimeter of Lucca mea ..read more

Never before in the field of human language has so much trouble been caused to so many by so few letters (to mangle a famous quote from 84 years ago) as the Italian word 'ci'. Fatemelo dimostrare con quest'esempio contorto e poi ve lo spiego meglio con gli usi più comuni: Ci si rende conto che ci vuole tanto per capirci ma se vi ci mettete ci riuscirete! Below we explain how to use 'ci' in Italian: 1. Ci as a reflexive pronoun: Ci siamo comportati bene = We behaved (ourselves) well 2. Ci as a reciprocal pronoun with non-reflexive verbs: Ci vediamo spesso = We often see ..read more

Polpette di Carne Who doesn’t like meatballs in an Italian tomato sauce? Once meatballs crossed the Atlantic they became as much American food as Italian and every American child grew up loving spaghetti and meatballs. When you look at the ingredients for polpette di carne you’ll see that they are not so different to ragù bolognese, absent the battuto, so why is it that you can eat polpette in tomato sauce with spaghetti but you will incur the wrath of the mayor of Bologna if you dare to mention the forbidden dish ‘spaghetti bolognese’, even though the entire English speaking world has adopte ..read more

Abruzzo Cycling, Part 3 52 miles / 5,600 feet / 4.5 hours Ofena - Castel del Monte - Campo Imperatore - Santo Stefano di Sessanio - Calascio - Castel del Monte - Ofena Always searching for the road less traveled I designed this loop with weekend traffic in mind because on a gorgeous Sunday in mid-September there is never any shortage of people wanting to visit one of Italy's most spectacular national parks. And so it turned out because for most of the ride I was able to appreciate the incredible beauty of the Gran Sasso on quiet roads. Only for a couple of miles on either side of the solita ..read more

Everyone feels that they need to visit Venice at least once and I understand that, but you don't need to stay long and you don't really need to go back when there's a perfectly good alternative just across the lagoon. Maybe it's an age thing but I no longer have much tolerance for heaving crowds of tourists, elevated prices and a lack of genuine locals who can still afford to live in what must be a tourist hell for them. My last visit to Venice was in 2011 and it seemed quite crowded back then so I feel sorry for the 50,000 residents on the island today who have to put up with six million ..read more

The following are very common ways in Italian of approaching strangers when asking for directions or information: For directions to somewhere: 1. Scusi, per andare nel centro storico? Excuse me, how do I get to the centro storico? 2. Scusi, sto cercando piazza San Michele Excuse me, I'm looking for piazza San Michele 3. Scusi, si va sempre dritto per il centro? Excuse me, is it straight on for the center? 4. Scusi, mi sono perso. Dov'è via Fillungo? Excuse me I'm lost. Where's via Fillungo? For information, availability etc or in the supermarket, on a train etc 1. Scusi, dove si trova la staz ..read more

The present infinitive form of verbs is used much more in the Italian language than in English. First a few examples of similar constructions, then all the different uses. Similar Usage in both Languages: 1. After modal verbs and sapere when it means 'know how to' Dobbiamo studiare = we have to study Non possono venire = they are not able to come So cucinare = I know how to cook Vorrei andare in Italia = I would like to go to Italy 2. After many impersonal verbs and expressions Che bello essere qua = how nice it is to be here Bisogna riprovare = you need to try again È importante studiare = i ..read more

I first read this biography by Lucy Hughes-Hallett in 2014, soon after its publication, when my knowledge and understanding of Italy was still nascent and I was not equipped to properly assess the merit and rationale of many of the arguments and positions put forward by the author. After re-reading the book recently with the benefit of ten years in Italy living with an Italian wife and having Italian in-laws, there are now certain things with which I take issue. First let me state however that it remains for me a thoroughly entertaining and well-written biography of one of Italy’s most colorf ..read more

The Italian verb dovere is so much easier than the English equivalents of: have to, ought to, should, must, supposed to, meant to. And it gets even easier in conversation when you can use various tenses of andare as a short cut instead of messy compound constructions, as set out below. Present, Conditional and Future Tenses to express an obligation: I must/have to = Devo I should/ought to = Dovrei I will have to = Dovrò Past Tenses to express probability or an obligation either consummated or unconsummated: Probability By now they ought to/should/must have arrived = Ormai dovrebbero essere ar ..read more

History 627 people led by the President of Italy, Carlo Azeglio Ciampi, walked out of the main piazza in Sulmona on May 17th 2001 on a four day hike over the Maiella to the Sangro river to open the new Freedom Trail. Named after San Martino, who divided his cloak to help two shivering beggars, the trail honors the many forgotten Italians who helped the Allied POWs after the mass escapes of September 1943. Ciampi himself as a 23 year old anti-fascist had made this same dangerous walk as the POWs in early 1944 in order to reach the Allied lines so it was fitting that he was present at the inaug ..read more