One of the things that I have never been entirely happy with on previous locos is the fitting of additional lead weight to the boiler. Tank engines are a bit simpler because the lead sheet can be fixed in the tanks and enclosed. It’s not so much the fitting of the lead, so much as how to retain it and stop it from shifting over time. Previously where needed I have used epoxy or 100 degree solder to fix it in place (I have built a number of DJH kits and on those the weight of the cast boiler was more than enough without adding additional weight). This time I thought I would try a different ..read more

The last week or so has been spent on lots of little jobs that don’t seem to change much visibly on the model. The visible bits are the trimming of the cylinder drain pipes and having to rethink how I planned to mount and retain the motor from moving. I also milled a hex on the ends of the front crank pins to replicate the fitting on the prototype. DA Princess Front Crankpin I had initially envisaged that the mtor would sit flat and I did add a nut on to a frame spacer to retain it via a strap around the motor but it wouldn’t fit through the hole in the firebox with it in this p ..read more

The last parts to be made and fitted are the cinder guards that fit on the cab side. Even though they are nickel on this kit, they are very vulnerable and a friend mentioned that he always models them folded back which seems like a good idea. but I was concerned about painting around them. I also had the idea that I would like them to fold in like the real thing and so I decided to experiment with the extra etched frame that David supplies. I cut off the two pegs that fit into holes etched in the cab side and soldered a length of 0.5mm piano wire on the back of the frame. Then I drilled a leng ..read more

Today saw the last of the tiny components that make up the cylinder drain pipes made and assembled. I also ended up with a nice little bag of extra nuts. I made six for the operating bar and then decided they were a little big (lengthwise) so I made some smaller ones. Each one is made from 16 individual parts and the valves are a bit of a work of fiction because I couldn’t find any clear photos of what is actually under there but they pass muster when compared to the castings that I have in various kits and at least they fit this particular loco. The clips that hold the pipes together are ..read more

I asked a fellow modeller if he had fitted the cab roof yet, because it too has been yet another challenge to overcome. The reason for the challenge is that the profile of the roof rib visible in the shot of the roof below is a different profile to that of the rear frame of the cab which supports the cab roof at the back. David Andrews Princess – Sliding roof Shutters When I first fitted it the front of the roof didn’t go anywhere near the front of the cab (it did fit when I first “rolled” it some time ago. To get around the issue I cut a front rib to fit just inside the cab front which brough ..read more

The last items to make for the Princess, are the cylinder drain cocks/pipes. The castings were missing from the kit and I looked at those offered by Laurie Griffin and Ragstone but I wasn’t convinced that they were suitable for use on the Princess and decided to make my own. They are not yet complete but this is the first step. The making and alignment of the pipes themselves. I made a jig from a strip of nickel sheet which I milled a series of grooves in. The grooves were milled to suit the etched holes in the bottom of the cylinders with spacing of 10mm and 9mm I milled them using the p ..read more

Although I had fitted the handrail knobs to the boiler and smokebox earlier last week, I hadn’t added those on the resin firebox. This was for no other reason than the superglue was upstairs in the fridge and I thought it easier to crack on with something else and bring the superglue down later. When I did subsequently fit the remaining knobs in place, those on one side were fine but for some reason both on the other side didn’t seat properly and the glue set as I was trying to push them home. I tried pushing them in with pliers and gently tapping them but I was very concerned that the re ..read more

I finally took the plunge and fixed the firebox to the footplate In order to do so, I needed to attach the firebox in two planes, to the footplate and to the cab front. I was sure that If I attempted to use adhesive for both it would be a recipe for disaster. In so much as I would end up with epoxy smeared where I didn’t want it on either the cab front or the footplate. To overcome this, I made up a plate that fits inside the firebox with two studs in it (1x 10ba and 1x 8ba). They pass through the cab front and are secured by nuts within the cab. They are hidden by the back head when it’s ..read more

Although I didn’t go to Kettering I did receive a Slaters SG38CANL Gearbox which had been bought at the show for a little job that I was asked to do. Slaters SG38CANL GearboxSlaters SG38CANL GearboxSlaters SG38CANL Gearbox Although I haven’t fitted it yet I foresaw no real problems until I was looking at the final drive gear and the grub screw that retains it. This is something that I pay attention to as I have been bitten before and indeed this one is a replacement for one of the former San Cheng gearboxes which required a slot cutting in the axle to allow the grub screw to screw in  ..read more

The last few sessions at the bench have been spent working on fitting the Silvertown lubricators which I made earlier in the build. After some thought I decided to drill and tap the bases/footplate rather than trying to solder them on. I did this for two reasons 1. They would be removable for painting 2. Being solid brass, soldering them would require quite a bit of heat, potentially disturbing some of the other details fitted previously. DA Princess Royal Silvertown Lubricators Fitted I have soldered all the wire tails to a strip of etch to keep them tidy but I may have to revisit the le ..read more