Sometimes you just want to go over the top!  This sacque gown (robe à la française) is without doubt the most opulent gown of its type I've made yet, inspired by a small number of extant gowns of the 1750-70 period made of beautiful brocade textiles with applied silver trim and lace.  My challenge was to create a gown that represented the luxury of the era in upper class dress, while still maintaining the balance, grace, and elegance of mid-18th century dress.   As often happens, this project was sparked by a fortuitous discovery of a luxurious silk blend brocade at a pric ..read more

Bodice of my new 'apron-front' Regency gown, pinned in place and ready to complete. It seems that everyone is creating Regency fashions these days, although I must admit it wasn't Bridgerton that influenced me (I really didn't like the series much at all, and found the costumes very poorly done).  No, this idea sprang up in my head a few years ago (BCE = Before Covid Era) to attend a garden party at a venue where fashions of the 1800 to 1815 era would be ideally appropriate.   First, as usual, I had to complete the underthings, working from inside to outside (something I would ..read more

As a maker of historical patterns, I'm the first to acknowledge the value of another maker's work if it's technically well-drafted (what I call "good pattern engineering"), reflects historical accuracy, and has clear and complete instructions.   So I'm not averse to turning to a fellow pattern-maker in a pinch, in order to avoid having to reinvent the wheel and/or go from zero to 90 to create a garment from an historical period with which I'm largely unfamiliar, and with a short deadline looming.  Now, I'm not going to go so far as to advertise another maker's pattern directly ..read more

It was wonderful to be asked again this summer to act as a roving historical interpreter for the town of Annapolis Royal, reflecting dress that might have been seen here in various eras, and sharing the deep history of this place with visitors and townspeople alike.  I and my husband will individually appear in town, mostly from about noon onward (weather permitting), three or four times a week, sometimes together.   Our first appearance this year will be on Canada Day, July 1st, at and around the festivities in the centre of town -- fingers crossed for a sunny day ..read more

Every so often I have a customer contact me to say they're having difficulty figuring out how to open and/or print a 'History House' pattern at home that they've just downloaded from my Etsy shop.   I'm hoping the suggestions below will help.  My main recommendation to all purchasers of 'History House' PDF patterns is to read the Printing Instructions that come with the pattern download package, and follow them in order, step-by-step.  Otherwise, please look through this article to see if any of the advice might help. ​ Getting started with History House PDF patt ..read more

I admit, I'm crazy about sacques!  For this second iteration of my design for a ca. 1755 French style "grand habit" (evening gown) I decided to use a glorious iridescent silk taffeta with a golden ecru ground and variable soft turquoise stripes.   This is essentially the same design as the taupe version (see my blog on that one), but I made some changes which I felt worked better with the lighter, softer colours of this gown.  Like the taupe version, this gown is entirely hand stitched.  Well over 200 hours of hand sewing went into its construction and embellishment ..read more

Three of the "Wandering Interpreters" (including myself, at right) that will be about the town this summer. (Photo credit: Town of Annapolis Royal) It was an honour for me to be asked by the Town of Annapolis Royal to represent our town this summer as a "Wandering Interpreter" and presenter of historic demonstrations.  With its rich history and many lovely vistas, Annapolis Royal is a wonderful place to be at any time of year, but especially in summer, with the beautiful warm weather, blue skies, and ocean breezes.  This year, after two difficult and empty summers due to Covid, it ..read more

It's hard not to love the graceful beauty of the 18th century robe à la française (often called in English a "sacque" or "sack" gown), with its elegant lines and ability to flatter practically any woman of any age and shape.  It's no wonder this style remained in fashion, with a number of variations, for nearly four decades of the 18th century, from the late 1730's to the late 1770's.   For this project, I wanted a silk robe à la française in a more formal style (what in 18th century France might have been termed a "grand habit"), something appropriate for evening wear in an up ..read more

Flax (linen) plants in bloom Ramie plants This is the first in a planned series of articles intended to help familiarize sewing enthusiasts with the origin, botanical features, history, and production of fabrics available to them, especially considering textiles which may be thought of as having similar characteristics.  This Part 1 will look at the two linen "twins": ramie and true flax linen, which are really more fraternal than identical twins.  Whether your focus is on historical reproductions or modern sewing, I hope you'll find something useful in th ..read more

While enjoying the fresh cherries picked from our own tree today, it occurred to me that cherry red is one colour which seems to permeate fashion images throughout the centuries.  It is one of those hues that requires panache to wear, and a certain level of self-assurance, perhaps even courage.  Yet it's been embraced by every era I can think of, and is always ready to make a statement about its wearer, whether as an entire gown or costume, or accessory.  The men haven't been left out either!   One thing that seems to be forgotten these days is that cherr ..read more