DumbAnchors
205 FOLLOWERS
A collection of dubious top rope climbing anchors. Written by John Gregory.
DumbAnchors
3d ago
Lots of extra rope, bowline on a bight, but a half hitch as a tie off, suboptimal.
Barely hanging on at that point. This is important due to the rest of the anchor.
If that shaky anchor slips, the whole left side started whipping around.
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DumbAnchors
1M ago
That little bitty partially. buried rock is the real anchor. If that pops off, the rope will straighten and probably come off the big rock ..read more
DumbAnchors
1M ago
This appears to be 6mm accessory cord. The good news is that it really isn't part of the system. The bad news is that it could easily cut. It is rated as strong enough, but the quartz nubbins could make quick work of it.
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DumbAnchors
1M ago
Apparently two is good enough.
If it isn't big enough to be THE anchor, it shouldn't be AN anchor.
Don't leave stuff at the top, especially about $150 in climbing gear. Love the laminated belay anchor card, it probably came with an expensive course.
This yard sale is pretty tempting.
The AMGA used to claim that the BFK was auto-equalizing. Well, no.
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DumbAnchors
2M ago
Picking the dead limb is what we call suboptimal.
If it just hanging limp it is a back up, not equalized.
If you sling both of these blocks, they won't move. If you sling just one, it moves.
Putting the anchor way up in the tree increases the force on the tree ..read more
DumbAnchors
3M ago
Eastern cedars have deep roots, but the complete absence of needles tells us it is dead.
Using two independent figure 8's means the anchor really isn't equalized.
How big is that rock? How much is underground?
Webbing used single strand, hardware in breakable rock.
Another mystery rock, this time with single strand webbing.
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DumbAnchors
4M ago
I think it was an attempt at a figure 8.
This one is on a bight.
The ever popular tiny tree and dead stump.
The anchor is one large loop, tied together in the center.
The knots.
No idea.
Looks like a bowline on a hollow tree, so it is backed up with...
wraps around a rotten log secured with a couple of half hitches.
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DumbAnchors
6M ago
First, select a loose rock.
Or use shoe lace and a runner.
Don't forget to block the trail ..read more
DumbAnchors
8M ago
The flying directional is brutal on the tree and usually creates anchors with over 90 degree angles.
That's the climbing rope running over lots of sharp edges.
ONE carabiner.
This one caused an injury. The anchors were ten feet apart, at a 90 degree angle. Note the use of the loose rock.
The tree is just too small.
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DumbAnchors
9M ago
Learn to tie off a bowline. Carabiners have been known to disappear at Carderock and Great Falls.
Perfect for tripping hikers.
That's a single carabiner at the climbing rope.
That's not redundant, and thin webbing on the rock is what you call suboptimal.
This is called a "Yard Sale", lay everything out and clip it together.
A lot of thought went into this, not good thought, but a lot. Some of the hardware are Quicklinks, not carabiners, so no gate ..read more