31 Dec, Puerto Valero to Cartagena, Colombia day 12: NYE in Getsemani We are awake early and depart our tranquil anchorage at Puerto Valero aiming to be settled in Cartagena in time to enjoy the NYE festivities. Forecast shows there would be no wind until at least midday. But as we motor out the bay, again heading westwards, the wind fills-in at a very pleasant 12-14kts and stays like that all day. To start with there is still some sizable swell but once around the corner and heading south to Cartagena the sea flattens giving us a wonderfully tranquil day-sail. And with the sails giving shade ..read more

1-3 Jan, Cartagena, Colombia days 13-15: After our passage from Santa Marta and News Year Eve celebrations we slept like babies on our first night in Club de Pesca marina. Most of New Year’s Day we enjoyed the air conditioning in the boat and didn’t venture out until late afternoon, only to de-salt the decks, pole guys and sheets. In theory it’s no hotter here than it was in Santa Marta but somehow the 32degC and high humidity seem more stifling. And the boat rocking is also no less than Santa Marta, only this time it is due to wake of the many boats passing the marina at speed, and not due to ..read more

30 Dec, Colombia day 11: After 10 days in Santa Marta, we depart for Cartagena hoping to arrive for NYE celebrations. Total distance is 110nm so not possible to do in daylight only. But thankfully there is shelter to anchor at Puerto Valero, about half the distance. It takes over an hour for the marina checkout and yet more paperwork. For Colombia we must report out of and into each and every port visited. Bit of a pain. But easy with agents. We had hoped to fill up with diesel before leaving, but as we exited our berth it was clear there would be quite the waiting-games. Lots of boats hoverin ..read more

20-29 Dec, Santa Marta: We spent 10 days in Santa Marta Marina before sailing to Cartagena for New Year. The first 2 days Ray and I were feverishly busy washing the boat of salt, cleaning inside, doing laundry and putting up the bimini. All in readiness for the commodore’s inspection on her arrival. And in the evenings, we wandered the very lively town sampling various drinking holes – of which there were plenty! And OMG so cheap. Our first arrival dinner was COP95,000. This sound a lot, but it’s just $18 for starter, main course, and drinks for the 2 of us in a nice restaurant. It also feels ..read more

Tues 20-Dec, Passage to Colombia, day 11: As my wake-up alarm goes off at 2am I can feel Cloudy is solidly in-the-groove. Stable and fast. Sail trim, heel, keel lift all in unison yielding a solid feel where I can sense each small rudder movement and not much wave motion. She’s like a stallion galloping home! In the cockpit it’s confirmed. We are doing 9-11 kts with 30+kts of wind at apparent wind angle perfectly on the beam. With deck lights on, the foredeck view is awash with flying spray whipping from left to right and white foam is passing rapidly down each side the boat. Wave angle has mo ..read more

Mon 19-Dec, Passage to Colombia, day 10: With luck this will be our last full day at sea. And according to forecast we are in for quite a grand finale. Winds increasing to 25 gusting 38 knts in the wind acceleration zone near the Colombia coast. But for now, it’s the same-old, same-old with regards wind and sea. Rarely changes much in the trades. 15-25kts from the east plus or minus 10 degrees. Cloudy is thundering along under full cutter sail and about 50% of mainsail. Genoa is fully rolled away. Everything outside is wet and salty. Continuous spray. While I’m pleased to report the newly seal ..read more

Sun 18 Dec, Passage to Colombia, day 9: Midnight and early hours see us passing the SW corner of Haiti, readying ourselves mentally and physically for the high wind dash across the Caribbean Sea to Santa Marta, Colombia. ETA Tuesday. Haiti’s western coast comprises of two long peninsulas and a 60nm wide bay in between. With the constant easterly trade winds, this coast is very protected from waves, swell, and wind. So it’s been a bit like the-calm-before-the-storm for us. The southernmost peninsula, the one we are now rounding, Grand Anse Sud, has ~20m depth shoals extending 10nm out to sea. W ..read more

Fri-Sat 16-17 Dec, passage to Colombia, days 7-8: As per yesterday’s blog, we start Friday at midnight ghosting along at 5-7 kts in 6-8kts of wind with both sails wrenched hard-in, managing 33degree to apparent wind and just, only just, making our desired course for us to transit the gap between British Caicos and Bahamian Mayaguana island. The night breeze is wonderfully cooling after our hot day, the moon is up, and stars alight the sky. And Cloudy is ghosting along silently but impressively. When sailing in conditions like this, all that arduous boat work and preparation evaporates into a f ..read more

11-13 Dec, Passage to Colombia, days 2-4: We were approaching the Hatteras Shoals by midday on Sunday (Dec 11th). After discussing between us the pluses and minus’ of either coastal or offshore route, we landed on going offshore (Der-Der-derrrr-dun. Queue drum roll ). We were still goose-winged sailing in northerly winds of 13-15 kts. Perfect for sailing our direction but alas it also meant the wind would be against the Gulf Stream current. Previously I’ve always avoided being in the GS when there was even but a snippet of northerly component in the wind. So despite our decision, in my head I ..read more

10-11 Dec, Passage to Colombia, day 1: Chesapeake to Cape Hatteras. Finally, yes FINALLY! Ray and I set off from a frosty Chesapeake Yacht Club at the crack of dawn, Saturday Dec 10th, starting our ~2000nm passage to Colombia, where Oana would rejoin me. Last blog I alluded to “2 fearless boys sailing Cloudy Bay to Colombia” but the truth for me was anything but. I had two major anxieties (which is uncharacteristic for me). First: just what will break next? It seems I’ve lost my confidence in Cloudy’s systems after her recent successes at pulling hard on my short-and-curlies. And second: we ar ..read more