How Victoria sent her first 5.12
Good Spray Climbing
by Senderella
2y ago
When it comes to training, you get out what you put in. Do you show up consistently? Do you go through the motions or are you fully engaged in your session? Do you trust the process even when you wish you were progressing faster? There is no moral superiority that comes with putting a quality, consistent effort into training. However, the reality is that the more you apply yourself, the better the results you will see. Which is why I am so thrilled to be sharing Victoria’s story, because she consistently applied herself during our training block. The results speak for themselves. After her t ..read more
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Why you have to rest
Good Spray Climbing
by Senderella
2y ago
Since the start of quarantine in mid-March 2020, I have been consistent with my training. Frankly, I cannot really leave my house, so what else was I going to do? I am training about six sessions per week over the course of 3-4 days. “While RT protocols significantly improves strength and size, these adaptations will eventually plateau. Over use injuries and overtraining symptoms may also occur as a result of prolonged RT routines (Baechle & Earle, 2008). Over training typically results from extreme levels of RT frequency, volume, and intensity without sufficient rest or recovery. Which ca ..read more
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Planning your Year in Climbing
Good Spray Climbing
by Senderella
2y ago
Having a well thought out training plan for your climbing is awesome, but if you start training two weeks before good conditions ensue, the quality of your plan is irrelevant. You are too late. There is a lot to be gained from making roadmap to your year in climbing, but how do you do it? What should you optimize? And how exactly do you tell your relatives that you are not available for any weekend in the Fall? If you have ever asked “I have all these goals, how to do I fit them in?”, or “When should I start training?” or “how can I participate in multiple climbing disciplines?”, grab a glas ..read more
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Gambling with Time: Working on my First 5.13
Good Spray Climbing
by Senderella
3y ago
I have three sessions left to send my project before I leave Lander. I am privileged to have the space, time and energy to care this much about a rock climb. However, I think I like big climbing projects because they teach me about myself. These lessons are usually bigger and more important than climbing ever could be. Today, I need to process some thoughts. Writing helps me do that. And you, reader, might as well benefit from it. Maybe some day this will help you when you’re climbing a really hard rock climb. The Big Question: Volume vs. a Big Project When I got to Lander three weeks ago, I p ..read more
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How I Sent my First 12d
Good Spray Climbing
by Senderella
3y ago
Well folks, I sent my first 5.12d. It was undertaking, but was strangely the most pleasant projecting process I have ever had – albeit the longest. Which in the grand scheme of things was not that long, coming in at eight sessions between October 18 and November 17. Compare that with the several hundred days that Ondra spent on Silence. Or the seven years that Tommy Caldwell spent on the Dawn Wall, or the countless hours and days Sabrina Chapman spent on Titan, a 5.14a. Eight sessions is practically a cake walk, though it surely didn’t feel like it at times. But this story of taking my 2019 Re ..read more
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In-Season Climbing Training: 5 tips to stay strong and crush your goals
Good Spray Climbing
by Senderella
3y ago
As the leaves change colors and the climbs of our dreams turn into routes we are working on, the way we train has to change too. Whether your goal is to send a project or to simply enjoy your climbing trips outdoors to the fullest, the way you are training should change with your priorities. In this post, I will break down some quick tips and important concepts to adapt your training to your in-season priorities. Before we get into it, I invite you to take stock of a couple of things. Ask yourself these questions. Get out a pen and paper and write out your answers. What did your training/clim ..read more
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Improve Your Beta Memorization: How to Make a Beta Map
Good Spray Climbing
by Senderella
3y ago
The first time I ever saw a beta map was watching Reel Rock 12. Margo Hayes had created a monstrous construction of 8.5″x11″ sheets of paper on her wall. This paper mache detailed the moves and holds of her mega project – La Rambla, 5.15a. Hayes eventually redpointed the route, making it the world’s first female ascent of a 5.15a. Though my ascents are a far cry from the glory and complexity of routes like La Rambla, I realized that there might be something to this whole beta map thing. So I started making them for my own projects. It started with my fir ..read more
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Finger Injury part III: the Road to Recovery
Good Spray Climbing
by Senderella
3y ago
It’s hard to believe that it’s only been six weeks since I tore the cartilage in one of my DIP joints (left middle finger to be exact). In the last installment of this series I talked about why I’m so glad I got help from a medical professional. Now I’ll give you some insight into what it looks like to recover from a finger injury. We’ll dig into both the physical and mental side of the climbing and rehab I have been doing over the past few weeks. Finger Rehab: Heal the Injury, Maintain the Strength I’ve been working with Dr. Tyler Nelson remotely for my rehabilitation protocols. I talked a bi ..read more
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Grit, Passion, and Steady Progression with Scott Pagel
Good Spray Climbing
by Senderella
3y ago
“This is the moment where a person is actually ready and willing to change their life.” Tim Ferriss, on Harajuku moments There are certain routes that incite a Harajuku moment for people. If you are unfamiliar, a Harajuku moment is a term coined by Tim Ferriss in his book The Four Hour Body. The term came about from Chad Fowler’s sudden realization that he needed to lose weight while sitting on a wall in the Harajuku district of Tokyo. After this moment, he went on to lose 100 pounds. He made big life changes and stuck to them, yielding great results. Years apart, without knowing each other ..read more
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Finger injury part II: Should I see a Doctor?
Good Spray Climbing
by Senderella
3y ago
In the previous installment of my series on finger injuries, we dove into the circumstances leading up to my current finger injury. In this post, we’re covering what happened after the injury occurred. So when you do get an injury, what’s next? Can you still climb? How do you get better? The answers to all of these questions can be found at the other end of a consultation with a qualified professional. For my own injury, I consulted a specialist. In this post, we’ll discuss why I sought professional help, and how climbing-specific physicians are the best way to go for many injuries. So let’s s ..read more
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