Calculate your sport climbing grade with the new Tindeq setting! – contents Force plate dynamometer measurements for rock climbing training – Introduction Sport climbing level calculator for Tindeq Progressor Brief overview of the climbing grade models The concept of Critical Force in rock climbing endurance training Finger flexor Critical Force measurements in practice Peak Load/Peak Force measurements What can we learn from CF measurements? Rock Climbing Critical Force measurements with the Tindeq Progressor – Summary Force plate dynamometer measurements for rock climbing training - In ..read more

New! - Sport Climbing Level Calculator! If you're a sport/lead climber, there's a new tool available! The Sport Climbing Level Calculator! The Sport Climbing Level Calculator is designed specifically for sport/lead climbers. It analyzes the athlete's finger strength and forearm endurance profile to estimate the expected climbing grade accurately. Sport Climbing Level Calculator! Fully automatic Sport Climbing Performance Analysis! Analyze! The Sport Climbing Level Calculator will: Let you know how hard you could be climbing at your current fitness level Pinpoint your biggest weaknes ..read more

Sport Climbing Level Calculator - Introduction Have you ever wondered how hard you could lead climb at your current fitness level? Do you feel stuck on a sport climbing plateau, despite having super strong fingers? Or maybe your endurance is excellent, and you're considering investing time in finger strength training? Would you like to know how hard other climbers with comparable finger strength and forearm endurance climb? If so, running a simple test with the Sport Climbing Level Calculator can let you answer your questions and help you get on track with your training! All you need to do ..read more

MaxHangs MAW-MED 8-week training cycle spreadsheet Setting up your own training cycle can be challenging, particularly in the case of routines such as the MaxHangs, where it's necessary to calculate added load, edge depths, and other parameters. That's why I have created functional Excel spreadsheets for StrengthClimbing registered Premium Users [1]. Trigger neural adaptations efficiently through low volume, short time under tension, and high loads. All you need to do is register for a 1-month subscription plan and download the Excel spreadsheet. The MaxHangs MAW_MED training spreadsh ..read more

Endurance Repeaters Pyramids – Contents Endurance Repeaters Pyramids – Introduction Endurance Repeaters Pyramids – Basic Concept Endurance Repeaters Pyramids – Practical explanation Training stimulus of the Endurance Repeaters Pyramids Lactic capacity training (>100% CF) Anaerobic threshold training (85 – 100% CF) Maximum oxygen consumption training (85 – 100% CF) Aerobic threshold training (70 – 85% CF) Climbing endurance training common adaptations Endurance Repeaters Pyramids – things to consider Endurance Repeaters Pyramids – Summary Endurance Repeaters Pyramids - Introduction ..read more

Ketogenic diet for rock climbers – contents Ketogenic diet for rock climbers – Introduction My first encounter with the ketogenic diet What is the ketogenic diet? Keto diet and weight loss Keto diet vs. typical “crash” diets Keto diet and muscle mass Keto diet and strength Keto diet and muscle endurance Keto diet – things to consider before you try it Ketogenic diet for climbers – summary Ketogenic diet for rock climbers - Introduction Climbing is a sport where the strength-to-weight and power-to-weight ratios are critical for success. Therefore, climbers understandably strive to minimiz ..read more

Finger strength measurements for rock climbers – contents Finger strength measurements for rock climbers – Introduction Simple MVC-7 calculator The concept of MVC-7 The MVC-7 to 1RM analogy Hang intensity vs. time to failure Selecting the test edge for finger strength measurements Putting theory into practice Simple MVC-7 calculator instructions Finger strength measurements for rock climbers – summary Finger strength measurements for rock climbers - Introduction If you're serious about training for climbing, monitoring your progress, and making the most out of your hangboard training, yo ..read more

Rock climbing endurance measurements – contents Rock climbing endurance measurements – Introduction The concept of Critical Force in rock climbing The three energy systems climbers use How to determine your Critical Force for rock climbing First, determine your maximum finger strength – MVC-7 Equipment required for rock climbing endurance measurements Calculation of the finger endurance test loads How to measure the finger endurance total test time How to determine finger endurance test failure To shake out, or not to shake out? Anaerobic alactic/lactic endurance test (80% MVC-7) Anaerobic l ..read more

Bouldering Veteran's road to V11 - Introduction The US is undoubtedly a rock-climbing paradise, full of fantastic climbing areas. Whether it's big wall climbing, endurance sport climbing, crack climbing, or bouldering, you're sure to find something for yourself. However, since it's such a vast land, it's often necessary to travel extensive distances to get to the most popular and well-known crags. But it's only sometimes required to travel far; incredible climbing could lurk just around the corner. This is the story of Paul Gennaro, a New Yorker who recently climbed his personal best at the l ..read more

Beastmaking - A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber - Review It's time to review another book from Vertebrate Publishing - "Beastmaking" by Ned Feehally. For me, this was one of the most anticipated climbing releases in recent years! The author is a remarkably talented boulderer. Among his many notable ascents, we can find, for example, The Big Island 8C in Font, a flash ascent of Trust Issues 8B+ in Rocklands, and multiple challenging highballs [1]. Ned is also the co-founder and designer of Beastmaker 1000 and Beastmaker 2000, which became what I believe to be the most succe ..read more