#100: The 10 Secrets to Climbing Harder!
Eric Horst's Training For Climbing Podcast
by Eric Horst
6d ago
To celebrate the 100th episode of the T4C podcast, I wanted to serve up a powerful, comprehensive, yet easily digestible and actionable list of things you can do today to break through a performance plateau...and begin a journey towards being the best climber you can be! No matter your current experience or level of climbing, I guarantee that you will find this episode to be a tour de force of things you can do to accelerate your rate of improvement...and increase your confidence, joy, and experience while climbing.  Therefore, a more accurate title of this podcast might be..."The 10 secr ..read more
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99: EXPERT: How Climbing Shoes Affect Your Performance. Big time!
Eric Horst's Training For Climbing Podcast
by Eric Horst
1M ago
When it comes to climbing, no single piece of gear is more influential on your performance than your shoes. Getting the right shoe fit and feel for a given boulder or route is critical to climbing your best! However, there are dozens of climbing shoes on the market with widely varying designs, looks, and prices. What's the right shoe(s) for your gym training and outdoor rock climbing? What features should you look for? How tight should you fit your shoes? Our shoe expert, Michael Genauer from La Sportiva NA, will answer these questions and many more in this episode. Listen and learn how to mak ..read more
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#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing
Eric Horst's Training For Climbing Podcast
by Eric J. Hörst
2M ago
In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier.  You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym. Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training methodolo ..read more
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#97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance
Eric Horst's Training For Climbing Podcast
by Eric J. Hörst
3M ago
The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds! Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity location, and your finger force vector are huge ..read more
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#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!)
Eric Horst's Training For Climbing Podcast
by Eric J. Hörst
5M ago
Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January. One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of con ..read more
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#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness
Eric Horst's Training For Climbing Podcast
by Eric Horst
6M ago
Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life? Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too! Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and aspires to increase human performance. I will present to you 15 powerful strategies and concepts that have shaped my MO in climbing and life over the past 30 years...and I trust you'll find this information empowering and actionable in your own quest ..read more
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#94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3
Eric Horst's Training For Climbing Podcast
by Eric J. Hörst
7M ago
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way...as well as a recent big breakthrough. With winter on the approach, the clock is ticking on this send season...and Ryan knows it! Lea ..read more
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#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers
Eric Horst's Training For Climbing Podcast
by Eric Horst
8M ago
In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I’ll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the quality of your training and blunt ..read more
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#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium
Eric Horst's Training For Climbing Podcast
by Eric J. Hörst
9M ago
In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August.  I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - "Insider Information" from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM)Symposium 1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow @ClimbingMedicine 3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-d ..read more
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#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project!
Eric Horst's Training For Climbing Podcast
by Eric Horst
10M ago
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year.  This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end! Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you mi ..read more
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