Wilderness of Waves
30m ago
At first I thought everyone in Papau New Guinea was such a honey and just wanted to give me fruits, but then I got robbed….. “I want $1k Kina,” the man says. He is hot and tall and muscular. Well dressed, well-spoken, wearing the type of hat a poker player or mobster might wear. Dark, …
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Wilderness of Waves
5d ago
I bobbed and bobbed and bobbed and felt very much like a flightless birds with worthless wings. I slept, and cooked, and showered, and stared, and fidgeted, and waited. Around sunset the wind began to fill in and I hoisted the main and unfurled the genoa and harmony was restored. I sailed slow at 2.5 …
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Wilderness of Waves
1w ago
The wind is a total mystery in Papau New Guinea. I’ve never known it to be so illusive. Half the time I feel like I’m out here chasing something that doesn’t want to be found. As if we are in a game of hide and seek. Wind, we are friends, let’s play sardines instead. Please. …
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Wilderness of Waves
1w ago
I have been sailing along Bougainville all day and I don’t have much to show for it; a burnt nose, 27 nautical miles, and a black and white butterfly that’s hanging in my cockpit. The wind was south, then east, now northwest. There was some wind, then no wind, then a squall with so much …
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Wilderness of Waves
2w ago
The water is really trippy right now. Looking glass still with floating reflections made of clouds and islands. There is the green and the blue, and seabirds sitting on logs, and flotsam and jetsam, and the aching in the sailors heart that comes with zero knots of wind. When we left Oema Atoll there was …
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Wilderness of Waves
2w ago
Morning came with sun and birds, but I lost the wind. I’ve been motoring for hours. Two of those hours were spent inside a reef system with a knot and a half of current pushing against me. Wooding Reef, Else Reef, Taylor Reef, Oldham Reef, me going backwards between it all. I am grateful for …
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Wilderness of Waves
2w ago
There was a blue and magenta sunrise at sea this morning and last night I could see every ghost in the Milky Way. The breeze blowing across my body and the sound of the sea fizzing beneath me is invigorating. I’m on my way to Papau New Guinea. Currently in the New Georgia Sound (The …
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Wilderness of Waves
3w ago
I am in Gizo now. I was all set to clear out and sail north of Papau New Guinea on a south wind then I got knocked down by some type of flu. I slept 32 hours straight and when I woke up the forecast had changed, but it’s ok because I did my taxes …
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Wilderness of Waves
3w ago
The peanut butter bribe worked. My neighbor and I got Juniper off the reef in exchange for an entire jar. She wasn’t wedged in or anything, she was just floating right over the reef and there were love taps that felt more like getting punched in the face every time the boat swayed or bounced. …
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Wilderness of Waves
3w ago
Don’t tell anybody, but I’ve got crabs. In my dinghy. On my anchor chain. Around my hull. Hiding inside my thru-hulls. Falling out of my hair. Climbing on my toes. The dang crustaceans are living on everything. Right now I’m floating in my dinghy, with all my dinghy crabs, on the edges of a saltwater …
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