Food Through Wine: Mas d’en Bruno, Priorat, Catalunya
Miquel Hudin
by Miquel Hudin
6h ago
A regular series that reviews dining through the lens of wine both good… and bad. Sitting between the villages of Torroja and Escaladei, the masia of Mas d’en Bruno sat abandoned and in a sad state for a very long time. It’s a remnant of other ages. First was the time when such large houses surrounded by extensive lands were commonplace in Spain, only to be abandoned during the 20th century. Then there came the birth of the second age when the owners of Clos de l’Obac were attempting to […] For full access, please log in or purchase a subscription ..read more
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Cain and persistence through ashes
Miquel Hudin
by Miquel Hudin
3d ago
I was seeing my family for Christmas in 2021, but I was also seeing the harsh realities of making wine in California in these modern times. A light rain misted the road as I arrived to the offices of Cain winery in downtown St. Helena. The impervious ceiling of clouds I’d found at the bottom of the valley, had followed my entire drive up. It was admittedly less rainy than other days but I couldn’t believe how wet that December was in Northern California. I was meeting the winery director […] For full access, please log in or purchase a subscription ..read more
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The official release of the Gigondas white wines
Miquel Hudin
by Miquel Hudin
6d ago
If there was ever an all-encompassing case of "Good things come to those who wait", then it would be the Southern Rhône appellation of Gigondas finally being approved to produce white wines in September of 2022. It was not a fast process as, despite the AOC being created in 1971, the work to allow white wines in addition to red and rosé, began in 2011, thus taking over a decade to realize. Previous to this change, any white wines had to be labelled as Côtes du Rhône and there are some included in the Tasting Report that's out today as they are de facto, Gigondas wines and clearly show a proof ..read more
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Pinea, Ribera del Duero, Spain
Miquel Hudin
by Miquel Hudin
1w ago
Pinea is a relatively new project from Ribera del Duero that’s based in the northern part of the region, in Quintanamanvirgo, founded by childhood friends, Vicente Pliego and Hugo Del Pozzo. Via their various lines of wines, they thread the needle in terms of stylistic choices in Ribera del Duero with the ’17’ wines providing more of a lighter, fresher take that’s a welcome change to find in the region. Then there are the Korde wines that work more towards a middle ground in providing a classic Riberan style in […] For full access, please log in or purchase a subscription ..read more
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Terroir al Límit – Pedra de Guix 2022
Miquel Hudin
by Miquel Hudin
2w ago
It’s as much a daunting challenge as it is a pure joy when I begin to taste the wines for the annual DOQ Priorat report. It isn’t the volume that seems a bit overwhelming as it’s usually only 200-300 wines from the region given that there only ~110 active wineries. I’ve tasted far larger amounts in other regions, such as Rioja where there are literally thousands of references and I always feel like I’m drowning to keep up with everything despite over a decade of visits. With Priorat, the main […] For full access, please log in or purchase a subscription ..read more
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Hispano-Suizas, València, Spain
Miquel Hudin
by Miquel Hudin
2w ago
This is a new tasting that picks up from the previous one of Hispano-Suizas in the València region. The main takeaway from this is how vintage-dependent their wines are as there were some large swings from the previous tasting. The biggest one being the Bassus Finca Casilla Herrera which was the best out of the previous tasting, but here it rises to true star level. It also happens to be the most complex blend of the wines which goes to show how important managing balance is in the region. Additionally […] For full access, please log in or purchase a subscription ..read more
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Drinking Well, Beyond Dubrovnik
Miquel Hudin
by Miquel Hudin
2w ago
An ongoing series that looks at how to enjoy a drink in less obvious and at times, exotic destinations for the European or North American traveler. It’s quite an experience to watch a travel destination evolve over more than two decades. This was the case for me when I first went to Croatia in the early aughts to visit my father’s family’s ancestral origins. Admittedly, as soon as I stepped out of the train in Zagreb (it was a longer route), I made a beeline for the Dalmatian Coast, despite […] For full access, please log in or purchase a subscription ..read more
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Famille Perrin – Domaine du Clos de Tourelles – 2021
Miquel Hudin
by Miquel Hudin
2w ago
When working on the Gigondas Report I discovered that the region, as is usually the case, has a great deal more to offer than what one might originally see. I think the reason for this is that everyone looks at Gigondas and thinks, “Oh, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Junior… and for less money!” Such assumptions are pretty much always wrong because if an appellation is created, then there’s probably a reason for it. And you see that here what with more acidity to the wines, less “woof”, and the vintages not even really […] For full access, please log in or purchase a subscription ..read more
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Trash Natural
Miquel Hudin
by Miquel Hudin
3w ago
Bread made from Rye flour is interesting as it basically makes itself. You just sort of mix it up, let it sit for a while, bake, and that’s it. Ah, but you do need to source good flour. Also, your starter/levain needs to be in top shape to get full fermentation. And… it needs to be mentioned that you really need to monitor the ferment and bake temperatures, ideally control the oven humidity quite closely, and generally be mindful to arrive at a top loaf. Oh yes, Rye bread isn’t necessarily a bread for everyone either. But otherwise, it’s totally a wholesome bread that makes itself, with no int ..read more
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The wines of Moldova 2024
Miquel Hudin
by Miquel Hudin
3w ago
Moldova has for some time been a “country of interest” for me. I can’t exactly tell you why, but I suppose it’s due to my having absolutely zero hardcoded ideas about it nor its wines as no wine education materials ever mention the country. There’s also the fact that in this day and age with everything broadcasted everywhere, all the time, a degree of relative anonymity foments a great deal of intrigue, at least in my case. Via judging for a large wine award event in London over several years, […] For full access, please log in or purchase a subscription ..read more
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