RunOut #121: Beth Rodden Reveals A Light Through the Cracks
RunOut Podcast
by Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous
2w ago
Today’s guest is a climbing icon and legend: the great Beth Rodden. Beth was a youth national comp champ who went on to become one of the greatest female climbers of her time, with important first free ascents of El Cap and single-pitch trad test pieces such as Meltdown, a 5.14c crack that many say is harder and took a decade before it was repeated. Her new book is called A Light Through the Cracks. But first we talk about the elusive “all-around” climber, with Bronwyn Hodgins at the top of mind. What does it take to be considered a great all-around climber? And is that the future for what we ..read more
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RunOut #120: Josh Wharton Redpoints the Alpine
RunOut Podcast
by Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous
1M ago
Josh Wharton is one of America’s top alpine climbers, with light and fast ascents of iconic peaks from Patagonia to Alaska to the Himalaya. His latest first free ascent with Vince Anderson, is called Suerte (5.13a, WI6, M7, 3,500 feet) and it’s located on Jirishanca (20,100 feet) in Peru. This ascent, which took years to “alpine redpoint,” is featured in a new film headlining Reel Rock 18. But first, yer friendly RunOut hosts discuss Kalous’ recent trip out to his namesake dance party at the Michigan Ice Fest, where there was more festing than icing. Our final bit comes courtesy of Evan Philip ..read more
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RunOut #119: Dean Fidelman, Portraits of an Artist
RunOut Podcast
by Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous
2M ago
Dean Fidelman is a legendary climbing photographer, whose body of work and portraitures have come as close to capturing the elusive soul of our sport as any photographer ever has. He’s perhaps best known for his Stone Nudes series of fine-art black-and-white bouldering photographs, but his career first began as a 16 year old kid with a camera, documenting the Stone Masters era of Yosemite and all the legendary characters associated with it. His latest book is “Fidelman: A Body of Work,” an ambitious retrospective that chronicles the career of climbing’s perhaps most ambitious and iconic artist ..read more
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RunOut #118: The Power of Climbing Community and Development—and the Threats it Faces
RunOut Podcast
by Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous
2M ago
Two amazing guests today. Two important conversations related to community and development. First, we speak to Sam Lightner Jr. about the latest threats to climbing access in America. Sam is a prolific route developer, who is perhaps best known for developing the climbing in Southern Thailand and helping turn Railey and Tonsai beaches into the destinations they are. But he’s also established many routes in the American west, and done the heroic work of replacing hundreds of anchor bolts under the American Safe Climbing Association. He was also one of the first board members on the Access Fund ..read more
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RunOut #117: How Two Big Wall Noobs Free Climbed the Nose
RunOut Podcast
by Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous
3M ago
Alex Waterhouse and Billy Ridal are both 26 years old, from Sheffield, England, and have been competing on plastic since they were 12. But once slapping plastic lost its allure, these two climbers found themselves dreaming of adventure. And adventure they found, as they spent a month fumbling their way into the world of big-wall climbing during a month long trip to Yosemite National Park earlier this year. And the unlikely duo emerged from their trip with one of the greatest prizes in climbing: a free ascent of the Nose. We caught up with the lads and talked about how they pulled it off. But f ..read more
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RunOut #116: Mary Catherine Eden Charms the Black Mamba
RunOut Podcast
by Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous
3M ago
Mary Catherine Eden is probably best known for popular Instagram account @tradprincess, but she’s far more than just another online influencer. She’s recently ticked one of the hardest crack climbs in the country, Black Mamba (5.14b), joining a small group of women, if not people of any flavor, who have climbed 5.14 on gear. We talk about her love of crack climbing, progression, “eating her veggies,” and balancing it all in life. But first, yr lovable disgruntled show hosts grumble about new proposals that seek to regulate our ability to place bolts in Wilderness. Our final bit comes all the w ..read more
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RunOut #114: Kris Hampton Taps into the Power of Climbing History
RunOut Podcast
by Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous
4M ago
Kris Hampton is the brains and brawn behind Power Company Climbing and the cohost of the podcast by the same name. His insatiable love of creating new things, whether that’s training plans for climbers or music, has led him to launch Written in Stone, a new climbing history podcast looking at monumental moments in our sport, decade by decade. But first, we respond to a couple of show listeners who had an absolutely insane exchange with climbing’s most notorious authority. No, we’re not talking about cops or park rangers. We’re talking about the kid who gives the belay test in the gym. Finally ..read more
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RunOut #113: How a Race to Get a Climbing Record Turned Deadly
RunOut Podcast
by Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous
5M ago
RunOut #113: How a Race to Get a Climbing Record Turned Deadly RunOut #113: How a Race to Get a Climbing Record Turned Deadly This fall, two American women found themselves in an unlikely race to reach the summit of Shishapangma, and thereby earn themselves a place in the record books as being the first American woman to have done all 14 8,000-meter peaks (with oxygen). Unfortunately, both Anna Gutu and Gina Rzucidło, alongside their respective Sherpa guides Mingmar Sherpa and Tenjen Lama, perished in two separate avalanches about 30 minutes apart around 7,800 meters. Did this informal competi ..read more
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RunOut #112: America’s First Climbing Gym Owner Sounds the Alarm
RunOut Podcast
by Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous
6M ago
Our guest today is Rich Johnston, the president and owner of Vertical World in Seattle, known as America’s First Climbing Gym (TM). He’s also the founding chairman of the Climbing Wall Association, where he served for 16 years, and a board member on The Mountaineers. Rich tells us about the earliest days of the climbing-wall industry, why he never thought climbing gyms would succeed, and how important culture and philosophy are to creating a community of climbers that abide by the inherent risk doctrine. All of this is a prelude to discussing an important bellwether lawsuit that was just settl ..read more
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Bonus: Alannah Yip Sounds the Alarm on Eating Disorders
RunOut Podcast
by Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous
7M ago
Today, we're releasing one of our bonus episodes from our Rope Gun feed on Patreon because the content is a PSA and super important for as many climbers out there to hear. Our conversation is with Alannah Yip, an Olympic sport climber from Canada with an incredible career. This summer, Alannah started a conversation about the prevalence of eating disorders in high-end comp climbing, fears about RED-S afflicting athletes, and what many view as foot-dragging by the IFSC, comp climbing's governing body, to do much about it. After Alannah's viral post on Instagram, she was joined by the likes of J ..read more
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