Bronwyn Hodgins Sends La Rubia 5.14c in Spain
Gripped Climbing Magazine
by Aaron Pardy
2h ago
On February 28, Canadian climber Bronwyn Hodgins sent the hardest sport climb of her life, La Rubia 5.14c (8c+) in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain. Known for her hard trad climbing ascents, La Rubia is Hodgins’ first 5.14c. Lattice Training has reported that Hodgins spent eight months training in preparation for the climb and two-and-a-half months working the line before her eventual send. “WOW WOW WOW !!!! I still can’t believe it!!!” said Hodgins on Instagram. “On Wednesday I climbed the best I ever have, and managed to clip the chains of La Rubia 8c+ (14c) in southern Spain! I’ll share more a ..read more
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Climber Crawls to Rescue in Patagonia
Gripped Climbing Magazine
by Gripped
7h ago
Rolando Garibotti’s Patagonia Vertical reported that Jordon Griffler got a ride in an army helicopter after sustaining a serious foot injury this week. Griffler and Quentin Roberts were on rappel when something happened to their final anchor and they fell a short ways. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Derl, Merl, Q-merl, and Skamerl (@maxi_tranqi) A large boulder then collapsed toward them and struck Griffler’s foot. Griffler was helped and he crawled to Nipinino from where he was transported to a hospital. Griffler and Roberts were below the east face of Cerro Torre when ..read more
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Kai Lightner Climbs New 5.15a with Death of Villains in Utah
Gripped Climbing Magazine
by Gripped
1d ago
American climber Kai Lightner has made the first ascent of Death of Villains 5.15a in the Hurricave, Utah. In November, he repeated Life of Villains 5.14d at the same crag. Lightner’s first 5.14c was Southern Smoke at age 13 and he climbed his first 5.14d with Era Vella a decade ago. “Figured I’d end Black History Month with a little Black History of my own,” Lightner said on Instagram, noting that he’d never trained for any route as hard as he did for this project. Death of Villains climbs the first half of Life of Villains before right through a bouldery crux. Lightner thanked Joe Kinder, wh ..read more
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Gabriele Moroni Sends La Rambla 5.15a
Gripped Climbing Magazine
by Gripped
1d ago
Gabriele Moroni has climbed La Rambla 5.15a in Siurana, Spain. This is the first repeat of the famous test-piece that we’ve heard of since Seb Berthe climbed it last year one day after Michaela Kiersch’s ascent. About his send, Moroni said on 8a.nu, “I tried it for some days during the 2022/23 New Years trip. Then again for a few days at the start of the month and finally on my second day of the last mini trip last week. The ascent came on a very windy day. I knew I had a pretty good chance to do it since I was already very close on my previous trip. I felt really good on the morning of the se ..read more
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Climbers on Everest Must Carry Tracking Chip
Gripped Climbing Magazine
by Gripped
1d ago
Nepal has announced that it will require all climbers heading up Everest to rent and carry tracking chips on their ascents. To climb Everest from Nepal costs $11,000 in 2024, but with food and guide costs it costs around $40,000. “Reputed companies were already using them but now it’s been mandatory for all climbers,” Rakesh Gurung, director of Nepal’s department of tourism, told CNN. “It will cut down search and rescue time in the event of an accident.” The chips will cost each climber up to $15 to rent and they’ll be sewn into a jacket. The chips will be removed after the climbers retur ..read more
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Jorge Díaz-Rullo Says Sleeping Lion Is Hard 5.15b
Gripped Climbing Magazine
by Aaron Pardy
2d ago
Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo recently announced that he made the third ascent of Sleeping Lion in Siurana. Chris Sharma established the route in March 2023, grading it 5.15c (9b+). The ascent came nearly 10 years after completing his first 5.15c, La Dura Dura in Oliana, Spain. Located at the famous El Pati crag, Sleeping Lion is a route characterized by stacked double-digit boulder problems separated by poor rest positions. Alex Megos picked up the second ascent of the route early last month, instead suggesting a grade of 5.15b. “In the end it took me 8 days and I would suggest [5.15b], as ..read more
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Trailer for Climbing Never Die just Dropped
Gripped Climbing Magazine
by Gripped
2d ago
Climbing journalist Matt Groom journeys deep into war-torn Ukraine to discover a community held together by climbing and patriotism, but indelibly changed by war. Featuring Danyil Boldyrev, Ksenia Zakharova and more. This film is part of the Reel Rock 18 lineup, visit here for where to find showings. Climbing Never Die The post Trailer for Climbing Never Die just Dropped appeared first on Gripped Magazine ..read more
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Spring climbing road-trip essentials
Gripped Climbing Magazine
by Gus Alexandropoulos
2d ago
For many climbers, the arrival of warmer temperatures signals the beginning of the Spring outdoor climbing season. To take advantage of these ideal climbing conditions, an overwhelming number of climbers schedule a Spring road trip. Not only do these trips help jumpstart the season, but they also provide an opportunity to visit incredible climbing areas that may be too hot later in the year. So, to help you get the most out of your trip, we’ve put together a list of our top ten Spring climbing road-trip essentials. The post Spring climbing road-trip essentials appeared first on Gripped Magazin ..read more
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Climbers Aim for Alaska’s Moose’s Tooth in Winter
Gripped Climbing Magazine
by Gripped
2d ago
Polish climbers Marcin Tomaszewski and Pawel Haldas are in Alaska and will be making their way to Moose’s Tooth, one of America’s most iconic granite peaks. The duo are hoping to take a bush plane into Denali National Park to attempt an unspecified project. “Not much has changed since our last trip (last year’s winter Greenland with Paul),” Tomaszewski said after arriving in Talkeetna. “During calendar winter, climbers don’t visit this area often, it will be just us.” Few climbers have attempted routes before the summer season in the area, however in 2013 Dani Arnold and the late David Lama ma ..read more
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New 1,200-metre Alpine Route in Dolomites
Gripped Climbing Magazine
by Gripped
2d ago
Earlier this month, Martin Feistl and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of Aura, a 1,200-metre M6 AI5 up the northeast face of Langkofel near Val Gardena in the Dolomites. They climbed the first few pitches of a summer route called Prinzessin im Herzen before following snow and ice for nearly 400 metres. They then climbed 200 metres up the Pichl Route, which was established in 1918, before stopping to bivy for the night. They found a small ledge to pitch their tent that was protected from the wind. The following day saw them climbing another 15 pitches in variable weather to the summit at 3,18 ..read more
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