How often do we stop to look at things in our own environment? I decided to do just that last week, when I took a walk around the oldest part of our village, Caylus. Dating back to at least the 12th century, much of the original layout and historical features has been preserved. And there’s a surprising wealth of things to see if you take the time to look. Accompany me on a ramble around a medieval village and imagine how it might have been centuries ago ..read more

Bon Quatorze Juillet (never called Bastille Day in France)! We have just returned from a 10-day trip to Sweden and are pleased to see that summer weather may now be with us. I’m not holding my breath, though. Our recent travels led me to think about responsible tourism, which is in the news at the moment. Some places and their inhabitants suffer from the influx of tourists in the summer, which can be damaging to the local environment and culture. In this post, I look at this in relation to our own part of France ..read more

We are living in Confucius’ ‘interesting times’ in France at the moment, as a hotly contested General Election campaign reveals how volatile the political situation is. However, life goes on, and the summer events are starting, despite the weather, which has remained unsettled. We went to a lovely concert at the nearby Abbaye de Beaulieu and were reminded that music has the power to ease many ills ..read more

Vieux in the Tarn, with its impressive church tower, was once a major pilgrimage site. We sang there last weekend in a 50-strong choir. The village sits in the picturesque Vère Valley, surrounded by vineyards and historic villages. Despite Vieux’ turbulent history, the 16th-century church is beautifully restored and preserved, as is the rest of this small village ..read more

At 87m high, the cathedral in Rodez dominates the landscape and has presided over the town’s history for almost 750 years. Its pink sandstone, soaring towers and multiple gargoyles are striking and much-loved by the Ruthénois (people of Rodez). Both inside and outside, the cathedral is bursting with architectural, artistic and historical treasures. Discover some of them in the latest post on the blog ..read more

Pierre Soulages (1919-2022) was a prominent figure in abstract art. He donated over 500 of his works to his native town, Rodez, in Aveyron. The commune commissioned a custom-built museum to display his experimental works, which are almost exclusively in black or dark colours. We took a long-planned trip to Rodez, ten years after the opening of the museum, to see his works for ourselves. This was also an opportunity to renew our acquaintance with this hilltop town. Find out what we thought of the museum and the works ..read more

Bonjour from Southwest France. I hope you’re staying dry wherever you are, which is more than we are here. The French language is rich in idiomatic expressions, each with its own unique origin. The meaning of some is obvious, while others are more obscure. I keep coming across new ones, so today I’m sharing a couple of them with you ..read more

I am intrigued by old doors and the stories that lie behind them. In Villefranche-de-Rouergue recently, we walked past one that was once the entrance to the town’s best hotel, l’Hôtel Moderne. The building's history dates back to the mid/late 19th century. It played a role during World War II, when the town was occupied by an SS battalion. The officers requisitioned the hotel as their headquarters, but it was no refuge for them when a mutiny broke out ..read more

Last weekend, we took advantage of the summery weather (up to 30C here), to explore a new walk. Le sentier des patrimoines (heritage path) follows the river banks of the Aveyron downstream from Villefranche-de-Rouergue. While enjoying the scenery and the wildlife, we also appreciated the historical landmarks and architecture highlighted along the way. You grasp the river’s importance for the town throughout its history. You also have unique views of the landscape and Villefranche’s place in it. P.S. The ‘summer’ didn’t last. We were treated to a freezing Northwest wind and temperatures of 10C ..read more

Jeanne Strang wrote a classic cookbook, "Goose Fat & Garlic" (1991), about the country recipes of Southwest France. The book includes authentic recipes and insights into rural life in this part of France. I was pleased to see that a follow-up, "Magrets & Mushrooms”, has appeared. This features new recipes but also chronicles the extensive changes in French rural life over more than 30 years. Jeanne witnessed all of this, since she and her husband bought a house in Aveyron in 1961. Together, the two books are the fruits of Jeanne’s extensive research and firsthand experiences. Liberally ..read more