New route on Mt. Dickey, Alaska: Aim For the Bushes
Alpinist
by Alan Rousseau
1y ago
[Over a three-day push from March 31 to April 2, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau climbed a new route on the east face of Mt. Dickey in Alaska's Ruth Gorge. They named their line Aim For the Bushes (AI6 M6 X, 5,250').--Ed.] Aim For the Bushes (AI6 M6 X, 5,250') on the east face of Mt. Dickey, Ruth Gorge, Alaska. [Photo] Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau collection "You thinkin what I'm thinkin?" "Yeah, aim for the bushes." One of our favorite movie lines from The Other Guys with Will Ferrell and Mark Wahlberg was playing through my head on our recon mission as I ch ..read more
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Remembering Ed Webster: 1956-2022
Alpinist
by Cameron M. Burns
1y ago
Ed Webster overlooking the valley of Indian Creek and the shadow of the Bridger Jack spires, 1984. [Photo] Jeff Achey One of climbing's great Renaissance figures, Ed Webster, 66, died of natural causes at his Maine home on November 22. He is survived by his daughter Joyelle and his wife Lisa. Born March 21, 1956, in Boston, Edward Russell Webster was one of American climbing's great seekers. He completed first ascents of now-classic climbs on rock and ice, from sinlge-pitch climbs to big walls and high peaks, and published inspiring writings. His comradeship commanded devotion, and he demonstr ..read more
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Alpinist hires Abbey Collins as assistant editor
Alpinist
by Alpinist Staff
1y ago
Abbey Collins on the summit of Mt. Beelzebub (7,280') in Alaska's Chugach Mountains, 2021. [Photo] Andrew Holman Alpinist is delighted to welcome Abbey Collins to its team as an assistant editor. She returns to the East Coast from Alaska to work from the magazine's headquarters in Jeffersonville, Vermont. Editor-in-Chief Derek Franz and Deputy Editor Paula LaRochelle will continue to work remotely. "Abbey brings a broad skillset to us, from radio to print journalism, and I'm excited about the possibilities she brings to Alpinist, and what this means for the Alpinist Podcast as well as the maga ..read more
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Derek Franz begins new role as editor-in-chief of Alpinist
Alpinist
by Alpinist Staff
1y ago
Derek Franz and friends avoiding the usual mule train of climbers on Pingora's Northeast Buttress (5.8)--one of the "Fifty Crowded Classics" of North America--by climbing it in drizzly weather in 2019, Wind River Range, Wyoming. [Photo] Derek Franz Alpinist has named Derek Franz as the new editor-in-chief. Franz began freelancing for the magazine in 2011 and published his first story in The Climbing Life of Alpinist 36. Franz joined the Alpinist staff in September 2016 as the digital editor. While learning the crafts of HTML coding for the website and managing social media, he assisted with ed ..read more
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Madaleine Sorkin becomes the first woman to free climb Dunn-Westbay Direct (5.14-)
Alpinist
by Derek Franz
1y ago
On August 10, Madaleine Sorkin, 40, enjoyed a no-falls day on the Dunn-Westbay Direct (IV 5.14-, 4 pitches, 1,000') on the Diamond of Longs Peak (Neniisotoyou'u, 14,255') in Rocky Mountain National Park. This makes her the first woman and fifth person overall to free climb the route on lead. The crux pitch is about 270 feet long and requires an 80-meter rope, and the route from Broadway Ledge sits above 13,000 feet in elevation. Madaleine Sorkin during her free ascent of the Dunn-Westbay Direct (IV 5.14-, 4 pitches, 1,000') on the Diamond of Longs Peak (Neniisotoyou'u, 14,255') on August 10 ..read more
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A new variation to Camp 2 and a speed ascent on Nanga Parbat
Alpinist
by Derek Franz
1y ago
Francois "Franz" Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco climbing the Aosta Valley Express variation (AI 90� M6 85�, 1400m) up to Camp 2 (ca. 6000m) on the Kinshofer Route on Nanga Parbat (8125m). [Photo] Courtesy of Yodel press agency In late June and early July, a group of climbing guides from Italy's Aosta Valley completed a variation to Camp 2 and a speed ascent on Nanga Parbat (8125m). On June 26, Francois "Franz" Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco established a 1400-meter variation up to Camp 2 on the Kinshofer Route (ca. 6000m) in alpine style in a single push from Base Camp. They called the variation the ..read more
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Researchers challenge historical records for 8000-meter peaks
Alpinist
by Derek Franz
1y ago
Annapurna (8091m). [Photo] Wolfgang Beyer, Wikimedia A team of researchers has been working for the past several years analyzing climbers' summit photos from the world's highest peaks--particularly on Dhaulagiri (8167m), Manaslu (8163m) and Annapurna (8091m). On July 8, one of them, Eberhard Jurgalski, announced in a report on 8000ers.com that they could only find evidence to confirm ascents to the actual apex of all 14 8000-meter peaks by three people: Ed Viesturs (USA), Veikka Gustafsson (Finland) and Nirmal Purja (Nepal/UK). The person who has been credited since 1986 as the first to collec ..read more
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Two new big wall routes completed on Alaska's Kichatna Spire
Alpinist
by Alpinist Staff
1y ago
Two new big-wall aid routes reached the rarely visited summit of Kichatna Spire (8,985') in the Alaska Range within the past few weeks. From May 23 to 27, Americans David Allfrey, White Magro and Graham Zimmerman opened a route on the northwest face that they named The Pace of Comfort (VI 5.10 A3+ M6 70° snow, 3,100'). Shortly after, on the east face of the spire, British climbers Mark Thomas and Mike "Twid" Turner completed a route they called Thunderstruck (VI 5.11b A3+, 3,900') on June 8 after 12 consecutive days of effort. Red dots show the route of David Allfrey, White Magro and Graham Z ..read more
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Fast times on Slovak Direct: Two teams blitz one of Denali's hardest routes in a day
Alpinist
by Skiy DeTray and Derek Franz
1y ago
[As the original story was about to be published, news broke that the route had been climbed even faster. The accounts of each ascent are mostly presented here in chronological order.--Ed.] Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau at the point where the Slovak Direct joins the Cassin Ridge. [Photo] Jackson Marvell At 2 a.m. on May 15, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau topped out on the Slovak Direct (5.9 X M6 WI6+) on Denali (20,310'), completing the route in just 21 hours, 35 minutes. It was a staggeringly fast time, but the record didn't last long. On June 3, Michael Gar ..read more
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Jon Nicolodi frees two classic mixed lines in his home state of New Hampshire
Alpinist
by Corey Buhay
1y ago
Jon Nicolodi starts up the crux pitch of The Resistance, a pick seam that widens to a 5-inch offwidth, on an attempt last February. [Photo] Adam Bidwell Jon Nicolodi has had a busy season. In March, the 30-year-old resident of Jackson, New Hampshire, notched two coveted first free ascents, putting the relatively unknown alpinist on the map. First, on March 10, Nicolodi reached the top of Across the Great Divide (M8 R, 5 pitches, 550'), a 1975 Rick Wilcox and Peter Cole A4 aid route on New Hampshire's storied Cannon Cliff. Several other prominent local alpinists had attempted the route before ..read more
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