Anatomy of a Dress Shoe
LordPoint Shoemaking
by Dan
3y ago
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Shoemaking Walkthrough #1 – Pattern Making
LordPoint Shoemaking
by Dan
3y ago
One of the most difficult aspects of getting started with shoemaking is trying to find detailed (& comprehensible) information about pattern making. There are a couple of books available on the subject, for instance the relatively well known red book called “Pattern Cutting” by Tim Skyrme, but they’re typically pretty expensive and even if you do bite the bullet and buy one they’re incredibly difficult to follow if you don’t have someone available to explain things as you go along. There are also a handful of YouTube videos that give a cursory treatment of the subject but they so ..read more
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Shoemaking Walkthrough #2 – Lining Pattern
LordPoint Shoemaking
by Dan
3y ago
 5 – LINING Once you’ve completed the pattern for the upper, you’ll need to create a pattern for your shoes’ lining. This will involve using the upper pattern that you’ve just completed and marking out the parts of the lining such that none of the seams in your upper pattern overlap the seams in your lining, which would cause unsightly & uncomfortable bulk in the shoe. (NOTE: About half of this post is a step-by-step look at how I arrived at the specs for making a lining pattern. If you’re not interested in the process of deriving the pattern and you only want to ..read more
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Sarah Green of CORD Shoes
LordPoint Shoemaking
by Dan
3y ago
I met Sarah almost 2 years ago. Just like every other aspect of learning to make shoes, I found out about her in a roundabout, convoluted way… when I was actually looking for something else entirely. One Sunday afternoon sometime around July or August I took a trip to Tandy Leather Factory, a leather store in Atlanta, to pick up some lining leather for a pair of shoes that I’d decided to take a stab at making. As I was walking around I overheard one of the employees going on and on about some local guy named Michael and how phenomenal he was at leather tooling. I was the only c ..read more
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Edward Green “Troon” Dissection
LordPoint Shoemaking
by Dan
3y ago
When I got a PM on Reddit (Thanks /u/mcadamsandwich!) from someone offering me Edward Greens, my first reaction was “Hell yeah! This should be interesting and different.” I mean, after looking at the Bostonians, J&Ms, and Allen Edmonds, which are all, for the most part, very similar, I thought it would be great to get a look at a $1,000+ pair of shoes and really get to see some unique high-end stuff. But, as it turns out, I was wrong to expect an enormous difference. Despite being 300%-400% more expensive than your average pair of dress shoes, these Greens shared about 90 ..read more
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Different Moc-Toe Styles
LordPoint Shoemaking
by Dan
3y ago
The biggest stylistic problem that I’m still seeing with my boat shoes is the moc-toe. I haven’t taken the time to make a pattern and cut the plug carefully before I sew it on and, instead, have just sewn it on with lots of excess material and then cut it to shape later. Not only does this waste material, but it’s sloppy and doesn’t end up looking very good. Instead of creating a small, neat seam between the plug and the vamp, this technique causes the seam to jut out at a right angle to the rest of the shoe. Exhibit A:   The solution to this problem seems to lie in cutting &a ..read more
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Boat Shoes MKIII
LordPoint Shoemaking
by Dan
3y ago
I’ve gotta say that I really enjoy this whole “learn as you go” type of approach. Even if it means that I make tons of mistakes and I’m left with loads of unwearable or unattractive shoes, it’s absolutely worth it to learn so much from experience. Don’t get me wrong, formal instruction would be great, but doing it this way really does change the way that I look at every aspect of the shoes that I make. By doing so many things wrong and seeing how things turn out when they’re done wrong, I have a great appreciation for why things have to be done in a certain way in order to be done right. That ..read more
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First time wearing my shoes (2 weeks)
LordPoint Shoemaking
by Dan
3y ago
So, I’ve never actually worn a pair of shoes that I’ve made until now. Knowing that I’m such a novice, I figured that so much would change from shoe to shoe that any attempt to make a matching pair would result in two wildly different shoes. Furthermore, I didn’t really think that any of them turned out well enough to warrant making a counterpart. But somehow the first boat shoe, with its shoddy simplicity, seemed to deserve a second. So I wound up not only making my first complete pair, but also wearing them for 2 weeks solid. At first I wanted to go easy on them and avoi ..read more
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Horween Boat Shoe
LordPoint Shoemaking
by Dan
3y ago
Given the surprising success of my impulsive decision to try and make a boat shoe (despite having no idea what I was doing) I thought I’d try to make a more refined version and put some actual thought into it. This time I went with Horween CXL instead of suede scraps and I made a handful of improvements based on what I learned from the first boat shoe. If you saw the post about my first boat shoe then you’ll probably recognize this pattern, which is identical to the one I’d used before. It’s a band of leather 3″ x 28″ wrapped in a circle with 1″ tall tabs on either side, w ..read more
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Boat Shoe / Moc Experiment
LordPoint Shoemaking
by Dan
3y ago
I had an idea for a boat shoe pattern while driving home from work the other day. The traditional way of doing it involves using one big piece of leather and wrapping it around the entire underside of the last, drawing it up over the toe, and pinching the excess out of the heel in order to make the whole big unruly piece conform to the shape of the last. The thought I had, however, was to use a long strip of leather, wrap it around the circumference of the last, and sew it together at the heel. The pattern would look something like this:   So, I gave it a shot once I got home using ..read more
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