Reexamining Major Jumps in Climbing Performance: Success Leaves Tracks
TrainingBeta Blog
by Neely Quinn
2w ago
My winter hasn’t exactly gone according to plan. I went down to Hueco in early January to escape the depths of Wyoming winter and get a strength and power dose on some of my favorite boulders on the planet.  Initially, I felt strong and with a month-long stay planned, I was confident it would be [...] The post Reexamining Major Jumps in Climbing Performance: Success Leaves Tracks appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more
Visit website
What to Actually Invest in for Climbing Training: Matt Pincus
TrainingBeta Blog
by Neely Quinn
1M ago
Recently, I wrote to the TrainingBeta email subscribers about how I was changing up my training for the winter and how switching back to bouldering for a bit during the late fall had reinvigorated my psyche after a disappointing fall sport climbing season. I wrote that piece while I was in the midst of training [...] The post What to Actually Invest in for Climbing Training: Matt Pincus appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more
Visit website
How to Sleep Better So You Can Climb Better
TrainingBeta Blog
by Neely Quinn
1M ago
In my nutrition sessions with climbers, I ask a lot of very personal questions: when do you eat, when do you poop every day, DO you poop every day, how much do you sleep? Through all of this questioning, I've discovered that most people I work with have trouble sleeping (and if you're wondering, most [...] The post How to Sleep Better So You Can Climb Better appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more
Visit website
3 Ways to Stay Sane When You’re Injured and Can’t Climb
TrainingBeta Blog
by Neely Quinn
1M ago
Most climbers get injured at some point, and most climbers go through some mental and emotional turmoil when that happens. We lament the fact that we somehow did this to ourselves and that our bodies aren't strong enough to withstand difficult things. Then we wonder what in the WORLD we're going to do instead of [...] The post 3 Ways to Stay Sane When You’re Injured and Can’t Climb appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more
Visit website
Questions to Ask Yourself if You’re Burnt Out on Climbing and Life
TrainingBeta Blog
by Neely Quinn
1M ago
When I was in my 20's, a woman in her 50's said to me, "The best part about menopause is that you stop giving a crap what other people think of you. I finally feel free to do what I want and be who I am." I was so envious... While I'm not menopausal, I [...] The post Questions to Ask Yourself if You’re Burnt Out on Climbing and Life appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more
Visit website
How to Get Your Joy Back in Climbing by Neely Quinn, CPC
TrainingBeta Blog
by Neely Quinn
1M ago
I've been hearing from a lot of climbers lately that they're not happy with their climbing. They've lost the joy they used to experience when they first started and they don't know how to get it back. They think they "should" be climbing harder grades, with less fear, and more quickly than they currently are. [...] The post How to Get Your Joy Back in Climbing by Neely Quinn, CPC appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more
Visit website
The Key Thing That’s Been Missing from My Training All Along
TrainingBeta Blog
by Neely Quinn
2M ago
I was talking with Alex Stiger about my climbing goals and training plans this year and she said something that keeps echoing in my mind that I wanted to share with you: "When you train, you kind of go crazy with it and do all the things, and then by the time you're ready to [...] The post The Key Thing That’s Been Missing from My Training All Along appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more
Visit website
What Matt is Changing in His Climbing & Training after a Disappointing Season
TrainingBeta Blog
by Neely Quinn
3M ago
Every month or so we do a life and climbing update on Matt, Alex or me, and this month is Matt's turn! Read on to see what he's been up to and what he's learned about his climbing. Enter Coach Matt Pincus... Changing Things Up My fall sport climbing season didn’t go well. Basically, the [...] The post What Matt is Changing in His Climbing & Training after a Disappointing Season appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more
Visit website
How to Deal with Pre-Send or Mid-Send Nerves
TrainingBeta Blog
by Neely Quinn
6M ago
Earlier this summer I was at this route I'd been trying for a few days - a 13a (7c+) called Uncle Dad in the Flatirons in Boulder. I knew I was close to sending, but I was just really uncomfortable, physically and emotionally. My heartrate was faster than normal, I was nauseous, I had that [...] The post How to Deal with Pre-Send or Mid-Send Nerves appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more
Visit website
How Alex Stiger Sent Her First 5.14a
TrainingBeta Blog
by Alex Stiger
6M ago
I overheard a woman in Rifle a couple weeks ago say, “if it takes longer than 3 years it doesn’t count anyway.” I immediately thought that was a weird thing to say and now that I have SENT my 4+ year project I can confidently say I do not agree. And I didn’t agree when [...] The post How Alex Stiger Sent Her First 5.14a appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more
Visit website

Follow TrainingBeta Blog on FeedSpot

Continue with Google
Continue with Apple
OR