The state of German bespoke tailoring Monday, July 22nd 2024Tags: M Müller & Son Max Dietl Volkmar Arnulf Share Share this post Subscribe 51 Comments ||- Begin Content -|| Max Dietl and Curd Jürgens. I’ve always found Germany an interesting country stylistically - one with a rich bespoke past but little left today, perhaps hampered by its attitude to dress and to smart clothing in general. In order to give the country its due, I’ve asked writer Bernhard Roetzel to talk about how Germany came to this point, and some the peculiarities of its tailoring.  In a s ..read more

Buck Mason: Good value staples Wednesday, July 17th 2024Tags: Casual clothing Denim Suits Buck Mason eddie bauer Fox Brothers J Mueser Share Share this post Subscribe 51 Comments ||- Begin Content -|| A reader recently asked why there is a correlation between shorter, tighter styles of clothing and lower prices. Why are all the styles we like from more expensive brands? It makes it vry hard for someone on a lower income to get into more classic dressing.  There are a few related reasons, I think, but the main one is that that shorter style still dominates the m ..read more

How a cape is made – and would I wear one? Monday, July 15th 2024 Share Share this post 15 Comments ||- Begin Content -|| By Manish Puri. During a recent trip to Madrid, I paid a visit to Casa Seseña, run by Marcos Seseña (the fourth generation of the family), and one of the few shops in the world still dedicated to making capes. In part one, I covered their 123 year-old history. In today's article, I take a look at how their capes are made and who’s buying them. - The traditional capa española is made from fine merino wool - a commodity fiercely guarded by the Spanish u ..read more

The Casual Style Guide back in stock Friday, July 12th 2024Tags: Permanent style The armoury Share Share this post Subscribe 9 Comments ||- Begin Content -|| I swear, we didn't try to create any of this hype. The Casual Style Guide, the book Jamie Ferguson and I published in March, was just popular. Particularly with wholesale accounts - menswear shops around the world - who bought up much of the stock before it could go on the PS shop. That meant those books went fast, and suddenly shops were getting anxious phone calls asking if they had copies. If you did want to ..read more

The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed Wednesday, July 10th 2024Tags: Suits Ring Jacket The armoury Share Share this post Subscribe 56 Comments ||- Begin Content -|| The Armoury offers one of the best, and certainly widest, ranges of MTM tailoring around, but it can be a little confusing.  Five years ago, I wrote an article setting out the models in New York and what I thought about them. Given that was popular, and a fair bit has changed since then, I took the opportunity of being in New York recently to try them on again.  This is the current list ..read more

Losing your hair gracefully Monday, July 8th 2024 Share Share this post Subscribe 76 Comments ||- Begin Content -|| (Me aged 20, just before the hair started to go. I still reckon that monkey has something to answer for.) I started losing my hair in my twenties. Looking back at pictures from college, you can see the tell-tale signs of receding hairline and, less obviously, a rapidly thinning area on top (accentuated by a double crown). I did experiment early with cutting it all off. While I was travelling in Israel, aged 20, I let a friend shave my head and sent a pictur ..read more

The 2024 readership survey results: Younger people, less TikTok Friday, July 5th 2024 Share Share this post Subscribe 66 Comments ||- Begin Content -|| What PS content do you like best? The single most powerful thing about Permanent Style has always been its closeness to its audience. I have over 100 mini-conversations with readers every day in the comments; Lucas has half that again on the shop side. The suggestions for articles means we can never run out of content, and that content addresses reader concerns, rather than targeting fashion trends or SEO.  Still, th ..read more

Luca Museo: Bespoke that feels like luxury retail Wednesday, July 3rd 2024Tags: Luca Museo Share Share this post Subscribe 38 Comments ||- Begin Content -|| Imagine walking into a bespoke tailor and finding clothes on long racks, inspiration pieces on mannequins, and unusual mid-century furniture. A tailor, in other words, that makes it immediately clear that they have just as much of an aesthetic vision as they do a craft one.  Luca Museo in Seoul, South Korea is this kind of atelier and the more you think about it, the more odd it seems that other tailors aren ..read more

Movie Stars and Matadors: The Story of the Seseña Cape Monday, July 1st 2024 Share Share this post Subscribe 21 Comments ||- Begin Content -|| By Manish Puri In 1957, Irving Penn arrived at Villa La Californie, the Cannes residence of Pablo Picasso, for an appointment to shoot portraiture - only to be told that the man of the house wasn't in. Undeterred, Penn instructed his assistant, Robert Freson, to scale the villa’s gate, where they found the painter lounging in a grey sweatshirt. After some persuasion, Picasso granted Penn 10 minutes to take photos, donning a felt ..read more

Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb Wednesday, June 26th 2024Tags: Style Suits baudoin and lange Pirozzi solbiati whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Share this post Subscribe 33 Comments ||- Begin Content -|| Quite a few people have asked about how the ‘Art du Lin’ linen from Solbiati performs, as it’s become quite a trend across different tailoring brands. Indeed, I hear Solbiati have now largely sold out of a lot of it and there are longer lead times on orders.  This is the suit I had made in the material recently, as a result of a new jacket from S ..read more