The church of the pilgrimage town of Purísima Chumayel, retains a classicYucatecan front, capped by a soaring espadaña.  Also of note here are first the gilded main altarpiece, dated 1738, fashioned in a late baroque style with delicate columns and passages of golden filigree. and then the large thatched side chapel, home to the iconic image of the Black Christ, also known as El Santo Cristo de la Transfiguración, a venerable crucifix which attracts pilgrims from across the region. text and images © 2024 Richard D. Perry  ..read more

 In previous posts we looked at colonial statuary from the state of Chiapas. In this post we review a selection of the statues we featured in our other guidebooks* These are contrasting figures of St Paul, facade statues from the early monasteries of Acolman (left) and Atotonilco de Tula (r) This remarkably realistic, sinewy figure of St Christopher bearing the Christ Child resides in the convento of Cuernavaca cathedral, formerly the Franciscan monastery' This richly accoutered statue, part of the main altarpiece in the monastic church of Xochimilco, is one of our particular favorit ..read more

 Last year we published images of two exceptional equestrian statues in the city of San Cristobal de Las Casas. In this post we look at a few other fine statues from the colonial period in Chiapas. First, the painted image in the Cathedral of its patron St. Christopher. Located beside the 18th century altarpiece in the south aisle, this noble statue of the youthful saint holding the infant Jesus is particularly expressive. The saint's curling hair and beard and his pale melancholy features in the Guatemalan manner contrast with his ornate coronet and flowing brocaded robe This venerabl ..read more

Epiphany! January 6th 2024. On this feast day of the Three Kings we return to the Pueblan church of Los Reyes to look at the church interior, where ribbed vaults reflect the white and gold nave, refitted in neoclassical style.  Fortunately for us, some of the original baroque altarpieces remain. The Main Retablo This gilded two tier retablo in high Mexican baroque (estipite) style  probably dates from the later 1700s. Prominent, swagged niche pilasters showcase statues of the Three Kings, and John the Baptist set between highly ornamental estipites.  The center tableau in ..read more

As is our custom at t his time of the year we like to feature a church dedicated to the Three Kings, or Los Reyes Magos In this post , the first of two, we look at the town of Los Reyes, a medium size market town in central Puebla state, across the autopista from Acatzingo, SE of the city of Puebla. This is the first of two posts on the church, focusing here on the ornate facade of painted stucco relief. Facade:   The church of the Three Kings presents a triple tier facade in the lacy, wedding cake style of popular Pueblan baroque,; its classical retablo format is enhance ..read more

Dzitas was an important crossroads town in colonial times, located on the old Merida—Valladolid highway, as well as major stop on the former railroad line. The old church of Santa Inez started life as a 16th century indian chapel It stands in a large, raised walled atrium, its broad stone apse housing the sacristy and friar’s room as well as supporting an impressive belfry which still stands.  The later main church suffered during the Caste War but has been fully refurbished in recent times. The wide rectangular front is capped by a triple belfry and corner merlons. A modern sequen ..read more

San Lorenzo Xochimanca is best known for its well-preserved chapel of San Lorenzo Martír, whose former atrium is now to a popular neighborhood park. The Temple of San Lorenzo Martír, originally a visita of Santo Domingo Mixcoac, dates from the 16th century.  The chapel was rebuilt in the 17th century by the Franciscans, and is constructed of brick and volcanic stone. The bell tower is noted for its colorful brickwork, from a local brickworks. The facade retains the form of its original doorway, surmounted by a plain alfiz and ornamented with unusual rosettes with windblow ..read more

We follow up on our earlier posts* on churches in Guerrero, with a visit to San Antonio Tehuilotepec, “mountain of crystal.” This unassuming country church, located in an old hillside mining town just east of the silver city of Taxco, is set in an elevated atrium braced by high stone walls. It is dedicated to Franciscan notable St. Anthony of Padua, whose rustic stone statue rests in the upper facade. Behind the plain facade are found two colonial artifacts of note; first the handsome gilded main altarpiece, fashioned in “solomonic” baroque style with ornate spiral columns, Although a stat ..read more

 In an earlier series we looked at several carved stone crosses in area churches of Aculco  In this post we feature a cross at the former 16th century century visita chapel of Santa Ana Matlavat, located a few kilometers north of Aculco. The cross in question stands atop the gable of the church. Formed from reddish sandstone? the cross is carved with numerous Passion reliefs, including a crown of thorns around the neck and dripping Wounds on the shaft and both arms. A chalice with emerging host, and a worn column with cockerel perched atop? also adorn the shaft, while an ornamental ..read more

The focus in our second post on Chiapas is on two related equestrian statues of colonial origin in the city of San Cristóbal. The first is a virile of Santiago Matamoros now located in the city museum of Los Altos, adjacent to the church of Santo Domingo. The saint is seated on a horse whose front hooves are elevated—possibly originally part of a larger tableau. The helmeted figure of Santiago is in his usual militant pose with sword upraised.  His costume as well as the saddle and saddle cloth are painted and richly finished in estofado style. There is no definite date for the s ..read more