Calvin Klein: Nostalgia or Now?
Disneyrollergirl
by Disneyrollergirl
18h ago
Lots of people have been in my DMs asking for my thoughts on the Calvin Klein Collection reboot. Lies! One person asked, but I’m here to share my two cents anyway. This show was the most highly anticipated of NYFW. If the relaunch of a 5-decades-old label is what’s getting people hyped about NYFW, that ..read more
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Japanese convenience chain FamilyMart is getting a fashion glow-up
Disneyrollergirl
by Disneyrollergirl
1w ago
The vogue for hypebeast grocers (documented in my aw24 trend report) continues. News just in: Japanese streetwear wonderkid Nigo has been named creative director for convenience store chain FamilyMart. If you’re thinking Tesco or Co-Op, it’s a bit more significant than that. The convenience store game in Japan is way bigger than plastic-packed egg sandwiches ..read more
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Oh, Dior! Kim Jones is leaving, is Maria G-C next?
Disneyrollergirl
by Disneyrollergirl
2w ago
It’s official. After weeks of speculation, it’s been confirmed that Kim Jones is leaving Dior menswear after seven years. I’ve really liked most of what Kim has done at LVMH (apart from Fendi – sorry!) and have routinely posted his Dior menswear shows here as he’s been an early adopter of using traditionally ‘feminine’ tropes ..read more
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The aspirational familiarity of Lemaire and Auralee AW25
Disneyrollergirl
by Disneyrollergirl
3w ago
While the major fashion brands have seemingly gone nuts with their pricing, it makes sense that a certain demographic has shifted attention to Lemaire and Auralee. Both just showed at the menswear shows – precise (and practical) layering, easy-but-interesting silhouettes, harmonious colour palettes and distinctive accessories. Lemaire’s outerwear is particularly desirable with their gently exaggerated ..read more
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Intimidated? You’re welcome
Disneyrollergirl
by Disneyrollergirl
1M ago
An alternative thought to last Thursday’s post about the cosy conviviality of the Alaïa cafe-bookshop. Reading Sheila Rock’s excellent 2020 photo book, Young Punks, her photo of the decidedly uninviting facade of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s 1976 SEX shop (above) revealed an audacious weirdness with intimidating appeal that lured people in out of sheer ..read more
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The Toscani effect
Disneyrollergirl
by Disneyrollergirl
1M ago
Farewell Oliviero Toscani, a brilliant photographer and art director who changed the world through his audacious activism dressed as fashion advertising. I became aware of him in the 1980s via his vibrant fashion shoots for Benetton using groups of racially diverse, often street cast models in simple studio settings, styled in layers upon layers by ..read more
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The culture of fashion: Alaïa for foodies and bibliophiles
Disneyrollergirl
by Disneyrollergirl
1M ago
Just after New Year I treated myself to a banana bread and coffee date at the new Violet Cakes cafe in the New Bond Street Alaïa store. Food and fashion have been forging an alliance for some time and I was reminded that Azzedine Alaïa was a natural instigator of this idea as far back ..read more
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On my radar: opera pumps
Disneyrollergirl
by Disneyrollergirl
2M ago
This photo of Roy Halston and Andre Leon Talley (above) appeared on my Pinterest and got me thinking about opera pumps. WTF are opera pumps? Quite simply a Regency-era formal men’s slipper previously adorned with a buckle, now with a flat grosgrain bow (below). The opera pump is traditionally worn with black tie, accompanied by ..read more
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Polly Mellen remembered
Disneyrollergirl
by Disneyrollergirl
2M ago
Thoughts and prayers to all the fashion journalists this week. I’m not sure what’s up with the planets but it’s been a whirlwind of arrivals, departures and confirmations. The happy news is that Chanel has confirmed Matthieu Blazy as its next artistic director (following his successful three years at Bottega Veneta) and Bottega has confirmed ..read more
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Rumoured: Louise Trotter to Bottega?
Disneyrollergirl
by Disneyrollergirl
2M ago
I’m exhausted and a bit bored by the designer merry-go-round rumour mill, are you? But please indulge these few updates as they’re personally of interest to me. First, it sounds like Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy is about to be named as the new creative director of Chanel. ‘Insiders’ say he won’t be responsible for everything ..read more
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