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Has anyone stayed in Salerno? Thoughts?

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Has anyone stayed in Salerno? Thoughts?

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Old Jun 14th, 2023, 10:13 AM
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Has anyone stayed in Salerno? Thoughts?

Looking for a couple of nights somewhere after Naples and before Rome. Salerno looks intriguing to me for a couple of nights, but looking back at too many posts, it seems people have just used Salerno as a place to catch a ferry to the Amalfi Coast. If anyone has stayed in Salerno (or even taken a day trip there), I would be interested in your thoughts.
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Old Jun 14th, 2023, 11:30 AM
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Salerno, SOUTH of Naples is a unspectacular Italian town.
You can use it for day trips to Amalfi coast, Paestum, Palinuro, Castellabate.....
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Old Jun 14th, 2023, 11:58 AM
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Hi, between Naples and Rome a couple of nights in Caserta would be great to see the Reggia, Casertavecchia, Sant'Angelo in Formis in Santa Maria Capua Vetere. We stayed three nights:

I've spent a day in Salerno. The traffic/parking/driving was so bad it ruined the day, but I would like to go back and visit it better. I found it a quieter and more pleasant version of Naples, nice historical centre , duomo and seafront.

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Old Jun 14th, 2023, 12:05 PM
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I spent three nights in Salerno, with daytrips to Amalfi (ferry there, bus back), and another daytrip to Paestum. I really enjoyed Salerno, especially the early evening passagiata, where the streets were thronged in the old town. A couple fine churches, some great, great pizza, pretty views to the harbor. It felt like a convivial Italian city with far less plodding tourism than nearby. Here's pictures:
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Old Jun 14th, 2023, 12:12 PM
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"a couple of nights in Caserta would be great..."

We were going to go to the Royal Palace as a day trip from Naples, but this might work out better to stay a couple of days. I had also thought about Tivoli for a couple of day, but will probably do that as a day trip from Rome. Thanks.
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Old Jun 14th, 2023, 01:59 PM
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I've been in Salerno several times to either catch a train/bus/ferry. If you have a car, I would stay a bit south of Salerno maybe for some beach time. Pasteum isn't far and has nearby beaches.

**We were going to go to the Royal Palace as a day trip from Naples, but this might work out better to stay a couple of days. **

I've stayed in Caserta. I was surprised just how much walking was involved with the palace. It's a walk just to enter, walking around inside (it's big) and then quite the trek to the fountains. I seem to remember it about 2 miles from the palace to the back fountain. Once you are back there, there are the English Gardens, etc. (more walking). You can get some kind of small shuttle bus from the backside of the palace to the start of the lower reflecting pool (I think). There are also surreys you can rent. I walked which was a big mistake as I was recovering from my flight from the US the day before where I immediately caught the train into Rome and changed to the train to Caserta.

Front entrance walkway

Standing at the back of the palace - walkway to the reflecting pools/fountains. It's a long walk just to get to the start of the pools

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Old Jun 14th, 2023, 02:08 PM
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Beginning of reflecting pools. The last fountain is where it's coming out of the mountain in the very back of this pic.

At the back fountain looking towards the palace which you can barely see in the distance.
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Old Jun 14th, 2023, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by kybourbon
I**We were going to go to the Royal Palace as a day trip from Naples, but this might work out better to stay a couple of days. **

I've stayed in Caserta. I was surprised just how much walking was involved with the palace. It's a walk just to enter, walking around inside (it's big) and then quite the trek to the fountains. I seem to remember it about 2 miles from the palace to the back fountain. Once you are back there, there are the English Gardens, etc. (more walking). You can get some kind of small shuttle bus from the backside of the palace to the start of the lower reflecting pool (I think). There are also surreys you can rent. I walked which was a big mistake as I was recovering from my flight from the US the day before where I immediately caught the train into Rome and changed to the train to Caserta.
kybourbon, I visited La Reggia di Caserta for the first time last month. You can rent a bike in addition to the little shuttle bus to visit the gardens. The shuttle bus drops folks off at the back fountain--there may be a stop in the middle too. Just an FYI to those who might want to visit but have problems walking long distances. [Side note, thanks for your recommendation of Hotel Italia in Matera, which was wonderful. Perfect spot for me.]

Caserta also has some amazing pizza! I had lunch at I Masanielli Francesco Martucci and it lived up to my high expectations.
https://www.pizzeriaimasanielli.it/

OP: I have been to Salerno but just a short visit. I would consider a stay there, though it's not between Naples and Rome, as I'm sure you know. Have you looked into Gaeta?
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Old Jun 14th, 2023, 02:12 PM
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" You can rent a bike ..."

A disaster waiting to happen.
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Old Jun 14th, 2023, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by maitaitom
" You can rent a bike ..."

A disaster waiting to happen.
Hahaha, understood.
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Old Jun 14th, 2023, 05:25 PM
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** [Side note, thanks for your recommendation of Hotel Italia in Matera, which was wonderful. Perfect spot for me.]*

Good. You never know when a hotel you recommend might change hands or it seems many things have gone downhill during the pandemic. Did you stay at the hotel I stayed in at Caserta too? I mainly booked it for convenience to the palace and the train station, but I did wander over to the old town.


**" You can rent a bike ..."

A disaster waiting to happen. **

I'm going to post a pic of the surrey you can rent and me on my surrey in the snow (without the top). If it's your usual crew, I'm sure the four of you can handle a surrey.




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Old Jun 15th, 2023, 05:34 AM
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"I'm going to post a pic of the surrey you can rent and me on my surrey in the snow (without the top)"

I can already hear us all belting out songs from Oklahoma.
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Old Jun 15th, 2023, 06:15 AM
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What are you looking to do in Naples and afterwards? What sites/towns are you planning to see?

We’ve passed through Salerno a couple of times now. It’s certainly got some sights to see but it doesn’t have as much charm as many of the towns in the area. It’s a larger city in the region and is great for transiting.

We’ve stayed twice in Atrani on the Amalfi coast. Absolutely love it and it’s walking distance to the town of Amalfi, so near a main ferry stop. Atrani is such a wonderful place to stay and yet feels very away from tourist central.

Or, if you’re looking to go to the Paestum temples, we enjoyed staying nearby. There’s not exactly a town but we stayed in a comfortable hotel near the ancient site. And the food in that region - wow. The mozzarella di bufala - omg. We ate at the restaurant at Barlotti Caseficio and it was one of the most memorable meals we’ve had. The memory of ricotta cheese still has my mouth watering. Or the lemon ricotta ravioli in a restaurant across from the site. Mmmmm….

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Old Jun 15th, 2023, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by maitaitom
"a couple of nights in Caserta would be great..."

We were going to go to the Royal Palace as a day trip from Naples, but this might work out better to stay a couple of days. I had also thought about Tivoli for a couple of day, but will probably do that as a day trip from Rome. Thanks.
Tivoli is quite nice. Ideally it deserves more than a day trip, as the two villas (Villa d’Este and Hadrian’s villa) together take about a full day to visit, and then you have Villa Gregoriana (walkways down the river gorge, not an actual villa) and the rest of the historic centre which is quite pleasant by itself. You can also drive up to San Polo for nice views.

For a stopover between Naples and Rome not far from Naples, Santa Maria Capua Vetere is a contender. It’s the old Roman Capua, with lots of cool ruins including those of the amphitheatre (the largest before the Colosseum was built, also where Spartacus fought).
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Old Jun 15th, 2023, 07:58 AM
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If you'd have a car, I suggest a couple of days exploring the Castelli Romani. LOTS to see. Lots of wine to drink.

https://www.visitcastelliromani.it/en/

https://www.wanderingitaly.com/maps/...li-romani.html
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Old Jun 15th, 2023, 08:37 AM
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I am so glad you posted this query! Just yesterday, I came up with a new plan for a September trip which would take me from FCO (or Naples airport) to Salerno, and from there we would rent a car and drive to Maratea for a few nights before traveling on to Senise.

So I am interested in the replies...sounds like a good place to over night for me after a long flight from NYC, and we could pick up a rental car in Salerno.

Any ideas for good hotels in Salerno, near the centro or the water? (Or is the centro on the water?) I've driven through the city but never stopped there.

Since Salerno is south of Naples, Tom, you might look at towns in the Castelli Romani, not only Tivoli but others that, to me, sound lovely. We also enjoy spending a night in the town of Fiumicino which has some nice hotels and at least one fantastic restaurant.

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Old Jun 15th, 2023, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by kybourbon
** [Side note, thanks for your recommendation of Hotel Italia in Matera, which was wonderful. Perfect spot for me.]*

Good. You never know when a hotel you recommend might change hands or it seems many things have gone downhill during the pandemic. Did you stay at the hotel I stayed in at Caserta too? I mainly booked it for convenience to the palace and the train station, but I did wander over to the old town.
kybourbon, I ended up just going to Caserta as a day trip, choosing instead to stay longer in Naples. From Naples I traveled via train/frecciarossa link bus to Matera. After several days in Matera, I picked up a rental car, which I kept until Lecce.
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Old Jun 15th, 2023, 12:08 PM
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Two nights in Caserta is a fine plan, so long as the day you are planning to visit the royal palace is not the first Sunday of the month. Free admission = unpleasant hordes.

But Paestum, which we visited as a longish day trip from Amalfi, is also fabulous. Decisions, decisions.
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Old Jun 15th, 2023, 02:08 PM
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Hi MaiTai,
Have you considered Minori? We rented there by design back in March.
It was chosen due to a trio of factors: authenticity/genuine (they can keep Positano...and Capri); fantastic food culture in form of Sal de Riso, a trio of the best sandwich-making delis ever plus a great pasta-maker; and excellent transit connections: the frequent SITA buses go both ways and there is also a taxi stand. Oh, and the scenic 360 views are pretty damn good. Less brouhaha-busy than nearby Amalfi town and easy access to what for us were the stars of the show: Cetara, Atrani, Scala and Ravello--*the sunrise view from Scala down to Ravello is perhaps the best-kept secret along the entire AC coast.

Note that Sentieri di Limoni (Path of the Lemons) hike is directly out of Minori and most find it an easier and just-as-enjoyable jaunt as any.
Happy to advise regarding additional logistics. Got a great value rental to recommend, one with that rare thing along reasonably-priced AC lodgings: a lift! The property manager also posseses his own offerings plus a dozen other rentals.

Salerno has a unique cafe set atop its local jardin botanique. Weird Hours. And some feel that its cathedral is among Italy's best. I dunno about that...

For us, Minori and also the isle of Ischia (with Procida) were the highlights. No way would we allot 2 days to Salerno unless we were there for a couple months.
One man's humble opinion. *TR to follow later this summer.

I am done. the alici sauce acqua pazza

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Old Jun 18th, 2023, 02:34 AM
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We loved Salerno, fascinating little city, underappreciated, here's my TR:

Rome - Naples - Paestum - Salerno - Ravello Trip Report
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