September...unusual itinerary....Bari to inland, then north to Vasto and into Abruzzo
Jun 6th, 2023, 06:46 PM
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September...unusual itinerary....Bari to inland, then north to Vasto and into Abruzzo
Title states it pretty simply, but I could not change the title of the thread...the idea would be to visit Vasto FIRST, from FCO, to take advantage of warm sea temperatures, and then travel south....... The trouble is, it have scoured both English and Itlaian TA forums, as well as this one, my favorite of course. The joke about Molise goes something like "that is the province that does not exist;" used to be part of
Abruzzo until not long ago.
So: I am going to outline what probably seems like an offbeat idea but makes sense enough for me to be considering it.
I would like to begin travel early enough inn September to be able to swim in the sea, something I've done very few times in my many trips to italy. I am deterred by water temperatures, and of course, medusi. But this is a dream of mine.
So: General plan might go something like this; keep in mind that an unusual goal is to buy my next few years' supply of peperoni di Senise (some of you can recall my endless pratter about my love for this pepper and my supply now is periously low.) I could NOT find them in Rome and if someone can conrirm that I do not hve to drive al the way to Senise to buy them, might shorten the drive..
Would like to combine:
+Sea swimming in warm waters. More immportant than lounging for hours on lidi. Do this in or near Vasto...begin maybe second week Septiembre.
+Walk around and just do my own thing (chatter with locals that will connect with us, look into food shops, talk about food and, of course, eat at great places, be they dives or somewhat fancy..good, local food is all that matters to us--we eat anything from donkey to dorado)
+Prefer hotels with pools suited for lap swimming, not easy to find but always a plus....not sure if they are open in September and if temperature is to my liking, Would like really nice hotels, either with charm anad good food, inland, or sea views, on coast. Budget is generous. Swimming laps is a big deal to me, and what keeps me kind of semi-sane, but cannot tolerate cold waters.
+Renting car is ok....hope I can find one in starting place of this proposed trip. Must be automatic with GPS. (FCO, or Vasto)
So, given all of my somewhat unusual (for USA tourists) tastes, I am looking at something like this: Please discount title of this thread that has the idea in reverse.
Fly to FCO. Overnight in town of Fiumicino; dinner at Pascioucci al Porto; hotel might be Hotel
Seccy, or others that are recommended. Get our bearings and be ready to pick up car next day at FCO. We enjoy Fiummicino, especially on weekends. You miss all the fun if you stay in an airport hotel.
OR: Next day take bus to Vasto, IF we can rent car there.
Spend a few nights in Vasto, hopefuly sea warm enough to swim..one of my dreams to swim in warm Adriatic. Also considered Termoli but TA reports seem to favor Vasto; hotels a big factor. Anyone have ideas about Termoli vs Vasto?????
From Vasto, meander inland (to be determined) to nearby agriturismmo, and on to Molise, possibily to stay in Agnone to see bell foundry, and other villages around area......farm stays would be great.....food would be #1 priority on this leg.
ossible stop in Larino for olive oil, but have alreday brought so much home that no a factor--just seeking lovely agriturismi with great food and, hopefully, pool I can swim in.....any inland agriturismo oro B&B would be considered......prefer that they have dinners on site as prefer not to drive in dark.
Continue driving south to northern Puglia, area around Montegrosso/Minervino Murge--mecca for great regional food.....ossible stop before there at any recommended farm hotels/agriturismi, etc; believe this is province of Foggia...is Foggia interesting???
Possible return to LAMA DI LUNA, outside Andria....good location for the restaurants nearby including in Montegrosso...stayed there before....will consider alternative or additional options..have made several trips to the more well-knnown towns and LOVED them all..but this trip would like something a bit different...
THEN: Drive of about 2 hours each way to town of Senise. buy many peppers and I always wanted to stay in this small Basilicata town and have found a hotel that sounds most suitable. VILLA DEL LAGO. I do wonder cause TA says it is closed, but this is the kind of local place deep into non-foreign-touristed Italy that we love for a night or two..other wise our friends tat he the pepper farm can surely recommend..let me link them, as they are tops of all tops in Basilicata:
Our visit to this farm was a highlight of all my visits to southern Italy....I do love the moe untouristed areas..who cares if no one speaks English..smiles and gestures go a very long way: The owners of this farm are TOPS in hospitality and, of course, grow those rare peppers that one day will be venerated abroad, if not quite yet....
https://www.peperonipennella.it/
And from there, return by car to Bari and probably fly home, via Fco to JFK...but open to any suggestions for dallying a few days more!!
How many days stay in Bari????? I oved Catania, which also has an undeerbed somewhat tentative reputation..can I walk alone at night after dark in Bar's citta vecchia???
End up in BaRI: Stay in Bari (where???) How many nights????? Wandering around and food important here....we have been to Trani, etc, but open to places we've not been in the area.
Fly home, via FCO to JFK, from Bari. Temptations liingers to exploe more of northern Puglia into Altamura..all possible. Length of trip should be around 3 weeks plus a few days ok.
Had considered combining this with Sardinia, hence my queries about that island, but I think it is just to complicated and I prefer to immerse myself one reegion, or neighboring regions,, at a time.....
So..anyone been to southern Abruzzo, Molise, privince of Figgia in Puglia???
Abruzzo until not long ago.
So: I am going to outline what probably seems like an offbeat idea but makes sense enough for me to be considering it.
I would like to begin travel early enough inn September to be able to swim in the sea, something I've done very few times in my many trips to italy. I am deterred by water temperatures, and of course, medusi. But this is a dream of mine.
So: General plan might go something like this; keep in mind that an unusual goal is to buy my next few years' supply of peperoni di Senise (some of you can recall my endless pratter about my love for this pepper and my supply now is periously low.) I could NOT find them in Rome and if someone can conrirm that I do not hve to drive al the way to Senise to buy them, might shorten the drive..
Would like to combine:
+Sea swimming in warm waters. More immportant than lounging for hours on lidi. Do this in or near Vasto...begin maybe second week Septiembre.
+Walk around and just do my own thing (chatter with locals that will connect with us, look into food shops, talk about food and, of course, eat at great places, be they dives or somewhat fancy..good, local food is all that matters to us--we eat anything from donkey to dorado)
+Prefer hotels with pools suited for lap swimming, not easy to find but always a plus....not sure if they are open in September and if temperature is to my liking, Would like really nice hotels, either with charm anad good food, inland, or sea views, on coast. Budget is generous. Swimming laps is a big deal to me, and what keeps me kind of semi-sane, but cannot tolerate cold waters.
+Renting car is ok....hope I can find one in starting place of this proposed trip. Must be automatic with GPS. (FCO, or Vasto)
So, given all of my somewhat unusual (for USA tourists) tastes, I am looking at something like this: Please discount title of this thread that has the idea in reverse.
Fly to FCO. Overnight in town of Fiumicino; dinner at Pascioucci al Porto; hotel might be Hotel
Seccy, or others that are recommended. Get our bearings and be ready to pick up car next day at FCO. We enjoy Fiummicino, especially on weekends. You miss all the fun if you stay in an airport hotel.
OR: Next day take bus to Vasto, IF we can rent car there.
Spend a few nights in Vasto, hopefuly sea warm enough to swim..one of my dreams to swim in warm Adriatic. Also considered Termoli but TA reports seem to favor Vasto; hotels a big factor. Anyone have ideas about Termoli vs Vasto?????
From Vasto, meander inland (to be determined) to nearby agriturismmo, and on to Molise, possibily to stay in Agnone to see bell foundry, and other villages around area......farm stays would be great.....food would be #1 priority on this leg.
ossible stop in Larino for olive oil, but have alreday brought so much home that no a factor--just seeking lovely agriturismi with great food and, hopefully, pool I can swim in.....any inland agriturismo oro B&B would be considered......prefer that they have dinners on site as prefer not to drive in dark.Continue driving south to northern Puglia, area around Montegrosso/Minervino Murge--mecca for great regional food.....ossible stop before there at any recommended farm hotels/agriturismi, etc; believe this is province of Foggia...is Foggia interesting???
Possible return to LAMA DI LUNA, outside Andria....good location for the restaurants nearby including in Montegrosso...stayed there before....will consider alternative or additional options..have made several trips to the more well-knnown towns and LOVED them all..but this trip would like something a bit different...
THEN: Drive of about 2 hours each way to town of Senise. buy many peppers and I always wanted to stay in this small Basilicata town and have found a hotel that sounds most suitable. VILLA DEL LAGO. I do wonder cause TA says it is closed, but this is the kind of local place deep into non-foreign-touristed Italy that we love for a night or two..other wise our friends tat he the pepper farm can surely recommend..let me link them, as they are tops of all tops in Basilicata:
Our visit to this farm was a highlight of all my visits to southern Italy....I do love the moe untouristed areas..who cares if no one speaks English..smiles and gestures go a very long way: The owners of this farm are TOPS in hospitality and, of course, grow those rare peppers that one day will be venerated abroad, if not quite yet....
https://www.peperonipennella.it/
And from there, return by car to Bari and probably fly home, via Fco to JFK...but open to any suggestions for dallying a few days more!!
How many days stay in Bari????? I oved Catania, which also has an undeerbed somewhat tentative reputation..can I walk alone at night after dark in Bar's citta vecchia???
End up in BaRI: Stay in Bari (where???) How many nights????? Wandering around and food important here....we have been to Trani, etc, but open to places we've not been in the area.
Fly home, via FCO to JFK, from Bari. Temptations liingers to exploe more of northern Puglia into Altamura..all possible. Length of trip should be around 3 weeks plus a few days ok.
Had considered combining this with Sardinia, hence my queries about that island, but I think it is just to complicated and I prefer to immerse myself one reegion, or neighboring regions,, at a time.....
So..anyone been to southern Abruzzo, Molise, privince of Figgia in Puglia???
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Jun 6th, 2023 at 07:16 PM.
Jun 6th, 2023, 08:42 PM
#2
Eks, yes, you can walk around alone at night with no problem in Bari Vecchia and also Murat. I would think you would want at least two nights there, longer if you can find a suitable place to stay. Bari has a very Southern Italian vibe, and certainly doesn't feel overly sanitized for tourists...but I do believe it is getting more popular so maybe better to visit sooner rather than later.
I looked for a nice, semi-luxe hotel in Bari either in Bari Vecchia or Murat to wrap up my recent trip and couldn't really find anything. I liked where I ended up staying quite a bit, but it was basically a comfortable mid-range business hotel, probably not what you're looking for. The downside--I guess--of Bari still not being a major tourist destination is that it doesn't have a plethora of "fancy" full service hotels. Lots of little B&B type places though (not what I was looking for, so I didn't research these deeply).
Given your hotel criteria, you might prefer to stay out of town. If you have used that airport before, you will remember that it is small and mellow, not much traffic to contend with on the way there so one could easily fly out without staying in Bari itself.
Katie Parla has posted a bit on Molise in the past, including I think places to stay. I can't remember whether it was on her website or (more likely) Instagram.
[I forgot to answer you on another thread--here or on the food site--that I don't recall seeing strings of the peperoni that are used as "cruschi." I may have just overlooked them, however. Did have a long-ish conversation with an older gentleman in Matera about the cruschi and he was telling me that when he grew up they weren't used as they are now, at least in Matera...but this conversation was in Italian, so I'm pretty sure I missed the subtleties. And he was talking about his childhood and he was at least 75...]
I looked for a nice, semi-luxe hotel in Bari either in Bari Vecchia or Murat to wrap up my recent trip and couldn't really find anything. I liked where I ended up staying quite a bit, but it was basically a comfortable mid-range business hotel, probably not what you're looking for. The downside--I guess--of Bari still not being a major tourist destination is that it doesn't have a plethora of "fancy" full service hotels. Lots of little B&B type places though (not what I was looking for, so I didn't research these deeply).
Given your hotel criteria, you might prefer to stay out of town. If you have used that airport before, you will remember that it is small and mellow, not much traffic to contend with on the way there so one could easily fly out without staying in Bari itself.
Katie Parla has posted a bit on Molise in the past, including I think places to stay. I can't remember whether it was on her website or (more likely) Instagram.
[I forgot to answer you on another thread--here or on the food site--that I don't recall seeing strings of the peperoni that are used as "cruschi." I may have just overlooked them, however. Did have a long-ish conversation with an older gentleman in Matera about the cruschi and he was telling me that when he grew up they weren't used as they are now, at least in Matera...but this conversation was in Italian, so I'm pretty sure I missed the subtleties. And he was talking about his childhood and he was at least 75...]
Last edited by Leely2; Jun 6th, 2023 at 08:54 PM.
Jun 7th, 2023, 03:00 AM
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I live in Northern Italy and love Puglia so drive up and down a lot. Last September we stopped over between Termoli and Vasto going down. I preferred Termoli because the historical centre is on the sea, whereas in Vasto it's on the hill and the sea/hotel/beach area is below. I'm a poor swimmer but like swimming in the sea but wasn't tempted in that area.
We later continued to Vieste, Scialara beach where we often go is fantastic also for swimming.
The first week in October we were in Alto Salento and the water was still warm - for me. I could have stayed in for a while. The sea for example in Campomarino was splendid.
I think the sea tends to be calmer and warmer on the west facing coast of Puglia because if the wind is from the north it's cold and the east coast and Gargano for example really feel it. We always travel spring and autumn.....in summer it wouldn't be an issue.
Resorts (meaning hotels, beach facilities etc) tend to be in a hurry to close down in September on the Adriatic side. You may find hotels with pools etc open later in the season in the Salento area, it is warmer there in September and October in my experience.
Hope this helps. If you click on my user name you'll find my profile and a blog with lots of entries about Puglia - use the search or the labels.
We later continued to Vieste, Scialara beach where we often go is fantastic also for swimming.
The first week in October we were in Alto Salento and the water was still warm - for me. I could have stayed in for a while. The sea for example in Campomarino was splendid.
I think the sea tends to be calmer and warmer on the west facing coast of Puglia because if the wind is from the north it's cold and the east coast and Gargano for example really feel it. We always travel spring and autumn.....in summer it wouldn't be an issue.
Resorts (meaning hotels, beach facilities etc) tend to be in a hurry to close down in September on the Adriatic side. You may find hotels with pools etc open later in the season in the Salento area, it is warmer there in September and October in my experience.
Hope this helps. If you click on my user name you'll find my profile and a blog with lots of entries about Puglia - use the search or the labels.
Jun 7th, 2023, 03:03 AM
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PS I've never stopped in Foggia, looks big and chaotic and not much to see. But these nearby towns and villages are fantastic:
Pietramontecorvino
Troia
Lucera
Bovino
All places in "Daunia" where local people have the time and desire for a chat, food is excellent. Puglia at its best....
Pietramontecorvino
Troia
Lucera
Bovino
All places in "Daunia" where local people have the time and desire for a chat, food is excellent. Puglia at its best....
Jun 7th, 2023, 10:08 PM
#6
A friend of mine lives in Bari and is an ex-policeman. He believes that Bari is significantly safer than it was 15 years ago, when it was still a hot bed of Mafia activity. He now feels safe walking everywhere and tourists should be comfortable (though obviously usual common sense rules apply, it ain't disney)
Jun 8th, 2023, 03:19 AM
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Jun 8th, 2023, 06:23 PM
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Just-Tina, I thank you with all my heart. You ae the one pperson wo has deliniated the difference between staying in Vasto vs Termol and now ii have another option...I have not slept in many hours due to partner's return from hip replacement surgery..please bear with me and i hope to return with questions if I am able to get some sleep tonight.
Last night: Screaming and moaning....eks (me) comes to his aid.
Me: But the md presrcrib the pill (mild opiate)
Partner: I do not want to become addicted.
Me: These pills are for a few days..you will not become addicted.
Partner; BUT I might overdose
Me; do you think Dr. Salvati (my own angel who has done a THR and a revision on me...I owe this man my life) is going to give you anything with a possibility of overdose if you follow instructions/
Partner: I do not want to tke mediction...I might overdose.
Me..after no sleep at alll: Ok, you have 2 choices. Dela with the pain or tke meds as Dr S prescribed.(MInd you, I have worked in a palliative care unit at NYU during the AIDS epidemic; I had many patients die under my care...I knw how to handle a patient qand now this partner has bceome my patient...
This is a tremendous digression..I needed to vent....I will be back tomorrow to do the task I love to do..plan trips to Italy.
Tina you have gifted me so much into..I am so grateful..please bear with me just for a day or two....
The difference been staying in Vasto or Termoli had flummoxed me....Cannot write more now as patient is calilng me...so sorry for the digression
Last night: Screaming and moaning....eks (me) comes to his aid.
Me: But the md presrcrib the pill (mild opiate)
Partner: I do not want to become addicted.
Me: These pills are for a few days..you will not become addicted.
Partner; BUT I might overdose
Me; do you think Dr. Salvati (my own angel who has done a THR and a revision on me...I owe this man my life) is going to give you anything with a possibility of overdose if you follow instructions/
Partner: I do not want to tke mediction...I might overdose.
Me..after no sleep at alll: Ok, you have 2 choices. Dela with the pain or tke meds as Dr S prescribed.(MInd you, I have worked in a palliative care unit at NYU during the AIDS epidemic; I had many patients die under my care...I knw how to handle a patient qand now this partner has bceome my patient...
This is a tremendous digression..I needed to vent....I will be back tomorrow to do the task I love to do..plan trips to Italy.
Tina you have gifted me so much into..I am so grateful..please bear with me just for a day or two....
The difference been staying in Vasto or Termoli had flummoxed me....Cannot write more now as patient is calilng me...so sorry for the digression
Jun 9th, 2023, 04:42 PM
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Tina, that's wonderful! I am now revamping itinerary and thinking of including Gargano after Termoli (not Vasto due to your comments; much better to hve the centro near the beach, rather than up on the hilll, although I had found a tempting hotel in Vasto, but also found one that looks good in Termoli).
Are there any trabocchi restaurants in Termoli? Also: What was the reason you were not tempted to swim in the beaches ner Termoli or Vasto? Are the beaches not pretty? Water too rough, or too cold?? If I cannot swim there I will limit amount of days there andn spend more time at a place where Ii can swim in the sea...(Gargano??)
In Gargano, I found a nice looking agriturismo outside Peschici. I see that beaches near there face north..would that be an issue, and are the beaches near there good to swim? I also looked at Mattinata which looks beautiful but a longer drive, I think. Would beaches there be a lot better for swimming than those in or near Peschici? Would Vieste be better than either of those?
I am now wondering if we should fly to Rome (or Naples) and drive first to Agnone and overnight (one or two onights??) and then continue on to the coast...first to Termoli and from there we might explore other places inland on day trips..Larino, etc... Still must look up the towns that NeckerVD (always helpful here!) has mentioned. There are SO MANY great looking agriturismi and inns in innland Molise..hard to choose. From there, maybe continue on to Gargano for swimming before driving inland to someplace near Minervino Murge or Montegrosso (for restaurants); we stayed once at Lama di Luna outside Andria and it was a good location and a pretty place, albeit a bit pricey. But we do prefer accommodations on the upscale side so willling to pay the price.
Stay there 2-3 nights and then take long drive to Senise. Overnight 1-2 nights at decent-looking inn I saw online. Visit azienda Pennella to buy the Senise peppers. Then return to Bari and stay a few nights before heading home.....all subject to change based a lot on comments from you and others who know these areas.
I would LOVE to return to Salento...we adored that area. Usually stayed in the area of Fasano and Otranto and Lecce. But one visit we did stay on the western coast, near Ugento but it was late September, I think, and beach we went to was pretty deserted and not conducive to swimming. Also fell in love with town on the same coast not far from Gallipoli--Santa Maria al Bagno... THAT beach was so beautiful and if we had had time I would have loved to stay a few days. We had lunch in a lovely restaurant there, Art Nouveau..I regretted that we did not base there. But I think that would be ranging too far--from Termoli to Gargano to Andria area to Senise then to Bari. Very tempting to spend a night or two in area between Andria and Senise or Bari and Senise (we've been to Matera but that was about early 2000's--I remember we were in Matera the day after Osama bin Laden was captured...not sure which year that was.
Anyway, do you think this is a decent general plan subject to changes? Time is not limited butu I think not more than 3 weeks, or three weeks plus a few days would be a plan accepted by currently ailing partner. My days as a home health aide continue but improvement is coming slowly, thanks for your good wishes on that! Tomorrow should be a big day!! Walk outside confines of apartment into the hallway on our floor!!!! Nice 1930s dark green terrazzo floors with none of the pesky rugs that litter our own space!! AND, I finally get to go out to Greenmarket and leave patient alone for an hour or two!!!
Thank you so very much to NeckerVD and yourself, Tina, for all of your help...it is especially welcome since there is not much in guidebooks or online in English.....best wishes and "talk" with you soon, I hope!!
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Jun 9th, 2023 at 04:46 PM.
Jun 9th, 2023, 05:48 PM
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Vasto and San Salvo (Basically one town) are bigger than Termoli. To be honest the distance between the two and Termoli isn't huge. Just a quick scoot down the SS16. There are beaches all the way down.
Personally I'd start with what lodging you find that's appealing. Any of the three towns won't mean much more driving.
Personally I'd start with what lodging you find that's appealing. Any of the three towns won't mean much more driving.
Jun 10th, 2023, 11:39 AM
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If you found a good hotel In Vasto I wouldn't exclude it. The sea/beach is pretty similar and if there's the right sort of pool that may be a deciding factor for you.
Termoli and Vasto beaches looked ok, typical Adriatic sea beaches.....like I said, I can't swim very well so I'm a bit fussy.....The Adriatic in that area is never as transparent as in Salento or Sardinia.
About Gargano, we stayed on the north coast near Foce Varano in September 2019 and the sea was never calm, but I've no idea if that was typical or just the weather that week.
Near Peschici we liked Mannacora beach but our favourite beach in Gargnao is Scialara in Vieste. The only problem with the Gargano area is that it can be windy and therefore the sea can be rough in the autumn.....it's not as sheltered as places in the Salento area.
We found the beach season in Mattinata to have finished by mid-September. We used Mattinata as a base for hiking.
Matera has improved a lot since the early 2000s and is splendid ( I first visited early 2000s and then went back in 2021), but perhaps not the best place for someone recovering from a hip operation. Impossible not to go up and down all the steps to explore the Sassi. We loved it, but it didn't do my husband's knee a lot of good......
Termoli and Vasto beaches looked ok, typical Adriatic sea beaches.....like I said, I can't swim very well so I'm a bit fussy.....The Adriatic in that area is never as transparent as in Salento or Sardinia.
About Gargano, we stayed on the north coast near Foce Varano in September 2019 and the sea was never calm, but I've no idea if that was typical or just the weather that week.
Near Peschici we liked Mannacora beach but our favourite beach in Gargnao is Scialara in Vieste. The only problem with the Gargano area is that it can be windy and therefore the sea can be rough in the autumn.....it's not as sheltered as places in the Salento area.
We found the beach season in Mattinata to have finished by mid-September. We used Mattinata as a base for hiking.
Matera has improved a lot since the early 2000s and is splendid ( I first visited early 2000s and then went back in 2021), but perhaps not the best place for someone recovering from a hip operation. Impossible not to go up and down all the steps to explore the Sassi. We loved it, but it didn't do my husband's knee a lot of good......
Jun 10th, 2023, 02:43 PM
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Tina, and everyone else who contributed to this thread: A million thanks. I am trying to put together a plan that might take us from Fiumicino town (we could overnight there for one night; I like it and there are good restaurants--food is a major interest of mine..regional food)
Then, what do you think of Agnone--two nights there and then on to the coast? Stay in Termolii or Vasto..found nice looking accommodations in both towns and will post them when I hav more time to devote.
Then detour inland to an agriturismo in Molise (again will post a few ideas; maybe in or near Larino (olive oil) and then on to Gargano. Would love recommendations for an inn or agriturismo in Molise, not too very far from the coast.
And then, stay near Minervino; side trip to Senise, and end up in Bari for a few nights.....seems like just a slight dip into the wonders of these areas..maybe include 1-2 other destinations.....still need to continue researching.
Fly home from Rome, or maybe even Naples, or Bari with connection in FCO.
I've found that in some regions, there is not one "perfect" place; there are so many that I tend to overdo the researching a bit.....again, caring for the patient here is taking most of my time but things are improving so I expect to have more time to read as days go by , and will return here often..thank you so very much to all who have kindly shared their knowledge and opinions and are helping me plan this trip!
I'm sure you know the Fred Plotkin book; it is sadly, a bit out of date as far as specific restaurants but he is just superb on his introduction to the food and wine of every region in Italy. In fact one of my favorite restaurant experiences in the north came directly from his book; back then LA FAGURIDA (above Tremezzo) was just about unknown to foreigners but I had a dinner there that ranks in the top tier of my list of best Italian restaurant experiences....Fred just gives so much sane and interesting advice; every tourist to Italy with even a vague interest in food ought to read this book.
Then, what do you think of Agnone--two nights there and then on to the coast? Stay in Termolii or Vasto..found nice looking accommodations in both towns and will post them when I hav more time to devote.
Then detour inland to an agriturismo in Molise (again will post a few ideas; maybe in or near Larino (olive oil) and then on to Gargano. Would love recommendations for an inn or agriturismo in Molise, not too very far from the coast.
And then, stay near Minervino; side trip to Senise, and end up in Bari for a few nights.....seems like just a slight dip into the wonders of these areas..maybe include 1-2 other destinations.....still need to continue researching.
Fly home from Rome, or maybe even Naples, or Bari with connection in FCO.
I've found that in some regions, there is not one "perfect" place; there are so many that I tend to overdo the researching a bit.....again, caring for the patient here is taking most of my time but things are improving so I expect to have more time to read as days go by , and will return here often..thank you so very much to all who have kindly shared their knowledge and opinions and are helping me plan this trip!
I'm sure you know the Fred Plotkin book; it is sadly, a bit out of date as far as specific restaurants but he is just superb on his introduction to the food and wine of every region in Italy. In fact one of my favorite restaurant experiences in the north came directly from his book; back then LA FAGURIDA (above Tremezzo) was just about unknown to foreigners but I had a dinner there that ranks in the top tier of my list of best Italian restaurant experiences....Fred just gives so much sane and interesting advice; every tourist to Italy with even a vague interest in food ought to read this book.
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ginder
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Oct 12th, 2005 08:14 AM
